Our friend and mountain guide fellow Peter Ressmann died in a tragically climbing accident on Friday 28th of May in Unken (Salzburg/Austria).
We lament for a good friend, and we also lose an excellent alpinist and mountain guide.
We feel with Peters family and his significant other.
In the name of the Alpinist team
Stephan and Anita
Dhaulagiri Expedition 12.04.2010 – 29.05.2010
Team: Stephan Keck and Paul Gürtler
BC Crew: BC Manager and cook Purna Tamang
goal: Dhaulagiri normal path 2 man Team without Sherpa support; no oxygen; ski run down
Last diary entries – written on May 19th in Kathmandu, Hotel Shangri La
In the last days we were hiking down from the base camp, following to this we had a wild car drive and finally a quiet flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu. We also found out what happened to the Chinese team. But read for yourself, step by step:
14.05 – Dhaulagiri base camp
When we packed our camp yesterday, we heard that the Chinese team – with Sherpas – has reached the peak during the storm. In the morning we heard from other Sherpas that there were serious problems at the mountain. They used the radio unit to get connections and what they found out was that one climber of the Chinese team died. Three more Chinese climbers have got bad frostbites, also one of their Sherpas. The rescue work with the help of seven more Sherpas is still in progress. The team should be somewhere between camp 3 and camp 2. Five more climbers which are stayng at camp 1 because of the bad weather are also helping at the rescue mission. So it seems that the climbers up there know what they are doing and we are not needed and ready to start our journey home. We guess that the oxygen of the not well acclimatized Chinese team got empty already at their way up. There was no possibility for us to help the rescue team because the base camp is 2 – 3 days away of the place of accident. We start our way down in the storm and snowfall and we can make it all the way down to the jungle.
15.5.
We make three day stages in one day. A wild way leads through a wild area. We see the helicopter flying to the base camp which means that there is a problem up there.
16.5.
This day is probably the most exhausting part of the way down. In the heat of the – for us unusual – sun we reach de first village with a street which leads to a busy area. We have a telephone connection here too. We saw 2 helicopters flying towards the base camp this morning. We get the horrible information that 3 of our Chinese fellows have died at the mountain. They reached the peak very late at the 13th of May and had to bivouac without a tent. Beside the three deceased climbers all of the others have got bad frostbites. They ran out of oxygen. The Sherpas has brought down the rest of the team. The last of them were flown out by a Swiss helicopter from camp 1 (Report kobler).
17.5 and 18.5
Drive to Pokhara – flight to Kathmandu
19.5. – Kathmandu
We are still shocked. We have often been together with the Chinese team and have analyzed the situation. The weather forecast for the peak walk was not good, but also not bad. There was a statement that the jetstream will blow pass the mountain on May 12th. A weather forecast is never sure, so a start of a peak walk was arguable. Unfortunately the weather changed and the peak walk was getting dangerous. We were hiking up together with the Chinese team on 10th and 11th of May. We felt the bad weather at camp 2 in the night of the 11th of May. While our decision was to hike back down, the Chinese team decided to keep going up with oxygen. The Chinese team was very experienced with conditions like these. They reached the peak of the Manaslu a half year ago. That’s maybe why they took the risk and saw good chances. Unfortunately this ascent ended in a drama. We are glad about our decision after the fight against the storm. We knew that the chance of reaching the peak was over at this point. But coming home safely is much more important. We are grieving for our fellows who were always hospitable, interested and accurate to us.
We will fly home in the next days. What we take with us from this expedition is mainly the warning of the mountain because of the drama with the Chinese team. A defensive decision is sometimes the reason to fail to reach the peak, but no mountain of the world is worth to risk our health.
Side note: In the last days – during a cleaning action – at the Mt. Everest a Russian climber was found (our friend Gianni Goltz, who had an accident in 2008). Tomorrow he will be buried in Kathmandu.
We thank our families and all our friends which were with us the whole time.
Many thanks to our sponsors and to Derk from the Netzathleten for the awesome commentator ship.
Kathmandu, 19th of May
Paul and Stephan
Dhaulagiri Expedition 12.04.2010 – 29.05.2010
Team: Stephan Keck and Paul Gürtler
BC Crew: BC Manager and cook Purna Tamang
goal: Dhaulagiri normal path 2 man Team without Sherpa support; no oxygen; ski run down
10.05
We crawl out of our sleeping bags at 4 o clock am. A perfect CIRCUHEALTH breakfast from Purna and Chandra is waiting for us. At 5 o clock we start to camp 1 for the last time. We see a pretty good chance to reach the peak after taking a look at the weather forecast. Like always we try to get pass the dangerous areas (under the “Eiger” and the glacier valley) as fast as possible. We reach camp 1 at 9 o clock. The weather is awesome and we use the day for relaxing, eating and drinking. The best thing to drink is again the cocoa drink of CIRKUHEALTH. It starts to snow a little in the afternoon and also the night is very smooth.
11.05
Fit and ready for the day we get up at 6 o clock am. We pack our stuff after a great breakfast. The weather is great today, blue sky and no wind. We are good in time and a Chinese group is walking with us. Every single group member has a Sherpa as an escort. From camp 2 all of them walk with oxygen, which is pretty good for us because they help us making tracks. One hour before we reach camp 2 it starts to snow and the wind gets stronger. After 4 hours o walk we are finally at camp 2. The wind is getting stronger. Our tent is covered on snow, we can hardly find it. Also the tents of the Swiss team are almost covered, you can just see the top of the tent. From this time on it does not look to good for us. All the gear I need for the peak walk is lost in the tent. We decide to free one of the tents of Kobler from the snow to at least have a tent for the night. Paul starts to dig out the tent while I am looking for our tent. Now it is storming on a height of 6650m. After 3 hours of work Paul has digged out the tent of Kobler. And I finally found our tent. Our BLACK DIAMOND tent lies under 2m of wind presses snow, but it is still in shape. No pole is broken and also the shell is still complete. We are lucky to find it. Because now all our needed stuff like food, clothes and tents for camp 3 are in a safe place. At 4 o clock pm we go into our tent tired but satisfied. Now the work of melting snow and cooking meals starts. It is getting dark soon. Unfortunately the wind does not get less and it starts to snow again. But we still have hope to get to the top. The Chinese team has created their camp 2 on a 50m higher area. Pauls cooking is very good and also all the bins are filled up. The wind is getting stronger and stronger and we are going to be covered in snow. This means we have to go out regularly to free the tent of snow. Every 15 to 45 min we have to go out alternately and start to dig. We have not expected that. You could see the starts clearly at midnight, but the wind is still very strong. For a short time Paul and I were sleeping at the same time. But luckily Paul waked up because he needed a “toilet”. In this short while the tent got covered with 50cm of snow. The air opening at the entrance was totally covered with snow. This was very comfortable because we could not hear the storm any more, but a half our longer and maybe we would not have waked up again. From that dangerous moment on we both stayed awake and waited for the morning with alternately digging.
12.05
The storm got a little bit weaker in the morning. Paul spent the night with shivering and I had to throw up once while I was digging. Despite the cloudless sky and sunshine we had to admit that with the strong wind and without oxygen it would not be very smart to go on. We had our chance but the wind is too strong now. After a short debate we decided to go down. Another hike up under these conditions and after such a night would be not just risky, it would rather be a suicidal action. We pack our whole stuff and make our way down to camp 1 while the wind is still getting stronger. We leave the mountain with a heavy heart. At camp 1 we pack the rest of our stuff onto our backpacks and we are heading to the base camp now with 30kg of weight on our backs each. At the same time the Chinese team is heading to camp 3 with oxygen. By midday we are at the base camp. We are very glad to reach the base camp and we need the whole afternoon to get recovered from the horrible night. At night we found out that the Chinese team has reached camp 3 and that they have lost 2 tents in the storm. A situation like this would not have brought us a happy end up there. Still tired we get in our sleeping bags right after dinner.
13.05
The day today starts with sunshine and looks like there is not much wind at least at the base camp. We begin to strike the tents at the base camp at pack our bags. The next good weather period should come on May 21st. This is too late for us, which means our time is over. There is storm again on the mountain. We heard that some of the Chinese have reached the peak with their Sherpas. We hope that all of them get back down safely. For us this would not have been possible without oxygen and these conditions. However the mountain will stand there a little longer. For us it was a great experience, and if we look at the circumstances we are just glad to be able to start the trip home healthy. Maybe our carriers will come tomorrow already, which means we can reach Pokara in three days and if everything works out good we are home at Whitsuntide. The last report about the hike down and the trip home will be made when I am back at home. We thank all our friends which have been which us mentally on our journey and we are looking forward to getting home.
Greetings from the Dhaulagiri base camp
Stephan and Paul
Dhaulagiri Expedition 12.04.2010 – 29.05.2010
Team: Stephan Keck and Paul Gürtler
BC Crew: BC Manager and cook Purna Tamang
goal: Dhaulagiri normal path 2 man Team without Sherpa support; no oxygen; ski run down
06.05
We get up very early and we are heading to camp 1. Paul and me are making the tracks on our own until we reach the glacier valley. Then the team of Kobler came to overtake the lead. The snow is very unsteady and the snow reaches up to our knees. After 5 and a half hours we are finally at camp 1. We use the rest of the day to melt snow for making the awesome CIRKUHEALTH cocoa drink. The night is silent.
07.05
We are waking up very early again and we are continuing with melting snow. Drinking is the most important thing up here. After a while we are watching what our friends are doing. Looks like they are not in a hurry, because they are still far away from camp 1. We have no chance to make the tracks to camp 2 on our own and the rest of the guys at camp 1 will go nowhere without Sherpas. So we decide to hike back down to the base camp and wait for a chance to head to the peak. It takes us about an hour to get to the BC. We use the rest of the day to find out when and who is going to the peak.
08.05
We are hanging around at the BC for the whole day. We are informing us about the weather forecast, having conversations with other teams, reading our books and having a great meal from Purna and Chandra.
09.05
Another day of rest in the BC. After checking the weather forecast we decided to start our peak walk on May 13th. We just know that there is snow again on the 14th, so we should start before. The Chinese team – including Mingma (a Nepalese climber which was on 10 8000m mountains already) also goes with us to camp 3 and to the peak. This all means that the safety is much higher in case of any problems. We will see!!! The Swiss team will start in 4 – 5 days.
This means that – May 10th – we will start very early again to get to camp 1 tomorrow. From there we will make one last phone call with Karl Gabel about the weather. At the 11th we will be at camp 2. We heard that our tent is covered with snow, and maybe broken. So lots of work to do at camp 2. If the weather is okay, we will put up camp 3 somewhere between 7200m and 7500m. We will have a short night there. If everything works out as planned, we will start to the peak at May 13th at 1 o clock am.
You will hear from us when we are back. Wish us luck. We will give our best to reach the peak and mainly return safely and without frostbites back at the BC and at home.
In the meantime
Greetings
Stephan and Paul
Dhaulagiri Expedition 12.04.2010 – 29.05.2010
Team: Stephan Keck and Paul Gürtler
BC Crew: BC Manager and cook Purna Tamang
goal: Dhaulagiri normal path 2 man Team without Sherpa support; no oxygen; ski run down
can`t wait to get to the top
Hello from the Dhaulagiri base camp – 05.05.2010
30.04
Doing nothing except of keeping me fit with the CIRKUHEALTH cocoa drink, sleeping and reading. This is what a day of rest at the base camp looks like.
01.05
We feel recovered and our view goes to the peak now. The weather does not look too good, and after a telephone call with Karl Gabel we decided to wait for another 2-3 days. There is daily snowfall at this time. This means that there is sunshine for 2-3 hours in the morning and then it starts to snow. There is already 40cm of fresh powder at the mountain. It is not too cold, but very changeable.
02.05
Today we use the day to have fun in the sun. We grab our unbelievable SKYVER to cruise around in the snow. Also our Nepalese friends like are having fun with the SKYVER. We are a bit worried about the electricity. We do not have power at the moment. It is impossible to start our way to the peak right now, because of the daily snow fall. We have to adjust our plans to the other teams because it is impossible to make the track to the peak in a group of two.
03.05
After another phone call with the weather man Karl Gabel we found out that – because of less wind – it would be perfect for the peak action right now. But the only problem is still the daily fresh snow. This means that the weather is still very unstable. All the other teams still haven’t had a night at camp 2, which means that they are not ready for the peak walk – except of a few. Paul and I still have the problem that it is almost impossible to make the track to camp 3 on our own. After a conversation with the Swiss and Chinese team, it looks like that every team wants to climb the peak at the 12th or 13th of May. We decide to climb to camp 2 once more to keep our acclimatization standing and get the rest of the needed gear up there. We wait for another day, and then we will climb together with the Sherpas of the Swiss team from the base camp to camp 2. With one more night at camp 2 we are ready for the peak.
Swiss and Chinese climbers are flown away
04.05
Waiting, waiting, waiting …….. and drinking CIRKUHEALTH fruit drinks to be prepared for the peak.
05.05
Another day of rest – it is snowing and we are sitting in our tents uploading our pictures and keeping contact with you. Our backpacks are ready for tomorrow and we are glad that we can climb up again. We will start very early tomorrow and we hope that we can manage to make the 2000m of height – together with the Sherpas of the Swiss team – in ten hours. We will be back at the BC on 7th of may.
Greetings from the base camp
Paul and Stephan
Dhaulagiri Expedition 12.04.2010 – 29.05.2010
Team: Stephan Keck and Paul Gürtler
BC Crew: BC Manager and cook Purna Tamang
goal: Dhaulagiri normal path 2 man Team without Sherpa support; no oxygen; ski run down
25.04.
Paul wakes us at 03:15 am, good, otherwise we would have overslept. The breakfast consists of hot potatoes and Nutella bread. We are ready to go at 4 o clock am. On the way to camp 1, we have food for more than six days with us, clothes and the rest of the needed gear. At the entrance to the Eiger we meet four Sherpas of the Swiss team. I am glad we start before them because I do not have a helmet and the ground is very loose. We passed the first steep part at sunrise. We go together with the Swiss team for the rest of the trail. Shortly before camp 1 we had to change the way because a big loosened serac zone has covered the tracks with a 5 – 7m thick ice layer. After 5 hours we arrive at camp 1. We use the rest of the day to relax, eat and water cooking. Tomorrow is also planned to be a day of rest at camp 1 at a height of 5800m.
26.04.
Day of rest at camp 1, relaxing…………
27.04.
We get up at 4 o clock am. After breakfast we start our trail. It is 6 o clock am. We carry 2 tents, gas, food and fixation material with us. It is very windy at the beginning and to the end it is storming. The sun is shining and it stormy and ice cold. Without a second VAUDE jacket from Paul I would have to go back because of the coldness. But after six hours we reached camp 2. We are lucky to take over an Iranian camp ground. The team was at the peak yesterday. After waiting for one hour – the Iranian team was ready to walk down now – we could put up our BLACK DIAMOND single wall tent. Right after that we start our trial back to camp 1. Being very tired we go to bed into our tents.
28.04.
This time we start at 8 o clock am to camp 2. The weather is good and there is no wind. We do not have to make the tracks because a little group of the Swiss team is walking in front of us. It is very hot and the way to camp 2 seems to be endless. One hour faster than last time (5 hours) we arrive at camp 2. We move into our mini tent and Paul starts to melt snow. What we see first in the morning is that we have to tighten the apse, to get a better windless cooking area. We have a very tight, but also good night at 6650m.
29.04.
We are ready to go at 7 o clock am. Today we go back to the base camp. I am glad about that. It is planned to have a day of rest. While we are melting snow the sun is rising. The great view is the compensation of an uncomfortable night. It is a very beautiful day, the sun is shining and there is almost no wind. We are ready to start after fixing our stuff to be storm resistant. We start our way down to camp 1 in 15cm fresh snow. After a short rest in camp 1 we continue our way to the base camp. We reach the base camp in 2 and a half hours. After the up and down in the glacier we finally reach the base camp where Purna and Sandra are cooking for us. It looks like we are ready for the peak now. We will use the next few days for recovery and relaxing and waiting for a good weather forecast for our peak ascent. You will hear from us before the next start.
from the BC, 29.04.
Paul and Stephan
19.04.
The night was surprisingly good and we have another day of rest today. Our carriers need the day to get the rest of the gear which was left behind yesterday. I am getting a heavy headache during the day and in addition to this massive dysentery in the evening. Paul is feeling great and he is planning the next steps with Purna and the team. The night is horrible, there is just water running out of me and the headache is not getting better. Three words: I feel godawful. Paul is looking for some antibiotics for my problem. Five minutes after every drink of water I am standing in the snowstorm with dropped pants. Antibiotics and aspirin help me through the night. From time to time we think that this could be the end and we have to hike back down through the Hidden Valley into nowhere land. The present height is already high enough to get serious anoxia problems.
20.04.
My headache is gone after a painful night. I am crawling out of my tent totally tired and powerless. Paul managed that we try to go down to the French Col, which is 300 – 400m lower, where the Dhaulagiri base camp is. The only problem to get to the BC at 5360m is that we have to cross a big snow field. Because I am not able to have breakfast I am the first one who starts the trail with my camera. I know that this is the only solution: I have to cross the pass to get to the lower base camp to get some recovery. Paul takes my backpack what makes it much easier for me. We walk next to a river where the landscape looks pretty much like the Tibetan high plateau. The river water is frozen and there is a mixture of cold wind and snow in the air. At about 9 o clock am we come to the point where we need to cross the snow. The last 200m of difference in altitude we have to walk in the snowfield. We are lucky that the snow is compact enough to carry our weight. We reach the French Col at 11:30 am. From there on it goes just downhill. The view of the pass is awesome. You can see directly to the Dhaulagiri. The mountain seems to be very massive and dangerous. Big hanging glaciers are waiting for us all the way to camp 1. The so called “Eiger” seems very daunting from the front. We should calculate with possible falling rocks and ice. We decide to go early every day to minimize the risk with the help of the coldness at night. The trail to camp 1 and to the peak is also dangerous because of avalanches. What a nice and warm welcome. But at the beginning it seems always harder than it is in the end. After a short break at the pass we start our way down. I am still like a leaking bottle but I can carry my backpack now on my own. We have to find out that “just” walking down can also be exhausting. It is very hot all the way through the stone desert. After a few breaks we finally reach the valley ground where we build up our base camp on the glacier tongue. We think we are almost there, but still we are walking up and down for another 45min at the Todd glacier until we see the tents of the other group. Arrival time at the base camp is 2:30 pm. This is the first time that the tea stays inside of me. It seems that the antibiotics are helping now. We could use one of the Swiss team’s tents for the first night because they were here with the same Nepalese agency as we are. Purna, Zering and Sandra are building up a kitchen and food tent. We are lying in our sleeping bags already before dinner. We come out to eat shortly and afterward we are enjoy a recreative night.
21.04.
After our first breakfast at the base camp we have to do some work. Thanks to the medicine I feel very good today. We create two areas for our tents where we are going to live for the next weeks. During the morning the rest of the Swiss team is arriving. The rest of the day is filled with relaxing and eating – yes, I can eat again. The weather is normally good in the morning but turns a little cloudy and windy in the afternoon, or sometimes even snowy.
22.04.
We continue with our BC build up after a sunny breakfast. One more platform stands in the ice where we first had to transport lots of stones and sand to create a flat ground. This is going to be our information and communication tent. The rest of the day is needed to set up the solar plant, telephone and internet. We even made it to send the first short message and a few pictures home. Continuing to this we pack our backpacks, so we can start the first time to camp 1 (5700m) tomorrow. This is what we take with us at the first climb to camp 1: 3 high camp tents, 2 duvet sleeping bags, 2 camping mats, 1 duffel bag, 2 gas cartridges, 2 snow anchors, cooking dishes, tea, lighter, 30m rope, 20m cord, 2 first aid kits, 1 emergency medicine, 2 peeing bottles, various ice screws and belays…….. . For dinner Purna and Sandra surprised us with “Speckknödel”. We have a short night.
23.04.
Punctually at 3:30 am Purna wakes us up. After a little breakfast (Chapati for Paul and hot potatoes for me) we start to the foot of the Eiger. The trail is surprisingly easy to find and soon we are on very steep (40°) ground. It is still dark but we are good in time. Soon we have passed the first 150 m of altitude and we reach a little cliff grot. Paul leaves his helmet behind at this point. We go on on a bit more easier way to the Eiger glacier. There is one more steep part before we reach a huge flat glacier valley. The sun is out now and we are at almost 5000m. We get along real good and soon we have let the long glacier valley and the impressive hanging glaciers behind us. During a short break we recognize how fast everything can change up here. Behind us a little part of the hanging glacier is falling down. First we can see a little snow cloud which soon becomes a big avalanche. With huge speed the avalanche rushes down the mountain. I am taking pictures. Paul says it will powder us too, but it did not. It rushed over our track where we have been just 15min ago. When everything is over we can see that our tracks are still there. So we saw that it was more the noise which feared us than the snow rushing down the hill. On one hand we are relieved and on the other hand we feel confirmed (early start). We go on to camp 1. There is one more steep part between hanging glaciers before we get to flat area and also into the sun. We make a rest to drink before we keep on going up. Now the danger of falling ice should be behind us. A moderately steep glacier with crevasses follows on the way to camp 1. After 6 hours and a half we are finally at the camp. At the same time two Sherpas of the Chinese team arrived too. We share our water with them and start building up our tents. We put our gear into the tent and start our way back down during snowfall. We use the rope to get safe through the crevasses. Back at the spot where the avalanche came down we have to find out that it was not just powder dust. A few smaller ice rocks rolled all the way to where our tracks are and could be reason for injuries. After 1,5 hours we are back at the BC. Summary of the day: Very long exhausting way to camp 1; former start needed; Good music and meal from Sandra make a perfect end of the day. Purna needs some medicine because he has a bad back and fever at times. We told him to stay in bed, what he probably will not do.
24.04.
Today we celebrate the Puja ceremony together with the Kobler group. Prying flags are put all over the camp and the gear is getting consecrated. I use the rest of the day to write the diary and prepare the gear for the next five days. This means the plan for tomorrow is to get up to camp 1 again to stay there for two nights. After that we want to get up to camp 2 and spend two more nights there at 6600m. At day five we come back down to the base camp. I think the next message will come to you on 29th of April.
Greetings from the BC, 24.04.2010
Paul and Stephan
Dhaulagiri Expedition 12.04.2010 – 29.05.2010
Team: Stephan Keck and Paul Gürtler
BC Crew: BC Manager and cook Purna Tamang
Goal: Dhaulagiri normal path 2 man Team without Sherpa support; no oxygen; ski run down
Diary entries from 12.04.2010 – 18.04.2010
12.04.
Start at 6:30 pm – Drive to Munich. After we have packed our bags, Anita, Sina and Silas brought us to the airport. It all went well like usual, except the Turbo at the car did not work. Anyway we arrieved at the airport in time, even there was time for a short interview with the NETZATHLETEN. After that we yet met some fellows from Germany and Switzerland, who were on the way to Cho Oyu. The flight to Abu Dhabi was without any difficulty.
13.04.
After a few hours of detention in Abu Dhabi we left the airport in time, but at the approach in Kathmandu we got into a heavy storm and had to do circles for two hours. We have never seen so many thunderbolts from such a close distance. There was no problem with the toll and so we have got our gear instantly and were ready to go, while there was a complete power breakdown at the airport. Except the fact that it was pitch black, the airport staff just catches an eye at the bicycle without seat and foot pedals we have with us. This is our SKYVER, with it we want to roll down a few downhill tracks. This time we stay in the middle of Thamel, and therefore it is easy to find an open restaurant. It is very warm here and we go to bed really tired.
14.04.
After a comfortable breakfast we go back to Thamel to get our last needed gear. Peeing bottles, extra packing bags, praying flags, greeting cards…….. We are writing the cards right after, in a little café. At 1:30 pm we head to the airport and continue our journey to Pokhara. Despite of the dust, which unfortunately is in every city here, Pokhara is very nice. We take a walk around the lake and enjoy the warmness, which is about +35°C. At the moment everything is running fine and cozy. After dinner we take the opportunity of the internet to skype a little and then we go into our rooms. It is very hot and also noisy – cars, motorbikes, disco sound….. I`ll take a cold shower and go to bed. Tomorrow our journey goes to Jomson to finally start our walk by feet to the Dhaulagiri.
15.04.
The night was very sticky and the alarm rang at 5 o clock am. After a short breakfast we packed our stuff into two taxis and headed to the airport. Jogendra from the Nepalese agency had our tickets already and we got a new companion – Zering. He is the cameraman of the Swiss team. At the airport the Skyver causes a sensation again which was very advantageous because of our over weighted luggage. The flight from Pokara to Jomson did only last for 45min and we are finally at the starting point. Jomson has recently been made available by street and is a very dusty town. Purna is waiting for us at the airport. Our luggage is being put on a truck and we start our walk to Marpha – Paul and Zering are walking, I am rolling. Halfway down I overtake a mother with her daughter. The girl is so excited and was driving down with me the rest of the trail. When we arrived in Marpha we got lunch and afterwards we had lots of time to look around the little village. The new road was not very good for the village, because all tourists which came from Mustang or the Ansporn round get in the bus in Jomson and skip the rest of the passage. Hence we have been brought to almost every shop in town and of course bought something: Xi-stones, praying flags, ….. In the afternoon the luggage is being split up to our carriers and then we are finally ready for our egress. The night here in Marha is not as comfortable as in Pokara, but the climate is much more likable.
16.04.
We leave Marpha heading to Dhaulagiri BC right after the breakfast. Soon we let civilization behind and make a lot of height. The surrounding is except of a good forest stand pretty scant and desertlike. Also temperatures are very high. Some Lizards are crossing our way while we are walking. At a height of 3600m we find a place to have lunch. We meet a single Russian climber with his Nepalese team. Our altimeter says that it is not far to the campground anymore. Jak Karkha is an alp on 400m as per our map. Our team wants to go further because it is easier to get water up there. So we continue, against all rules of acclimatization, up to a height of 4200m. It is already a little cold and we wait until all our carriers are here. The tents are put up fast and after a good dinner we crawl into our sleeping bags.
17.04.
Today is our day of rest. The night was very good despite of the height. I was lying in the sun the whole morning, while Paul did a little acclimatization round. After lunch we did it the other way around.
18.04.
Early we start to the Dhampus pass (5258m). Look like we are the only tourists walking this path. After two hour we could see the Dhaulagiri the first time. Clouds are making the view worse during the day. At about 2 o clock pm we reach the Dhampus pass base camp at 5000m and we are very glad to get to our goal of the day. But this is just what we thought. Purna suggests to keep on walking for 3 hours to build up our camp near the French Col. This way we would reach the Dhaulagiri base camp tomorrow, and we could sleep 200m lower. This sounds good and we pack our stuff to keep on going. One hour later we are at the Dhampus pass at 5258m. It was very warm and except of the pass there was no snow at all. But on the North Western side of the pass, in direction Hidden Valley, there is very much non supporting snow. But we can see from the top that there is a possibility to get on dry ground to get down from there. This is what we try. We are making tracks down for about 300m hip deep in the wet snow. This takes us about two hours. At the bottom we are waiting for our team. Slowly the sun sets and it is going to be very cold. Still we are at a height of about 5100m. Our carriers also need much time to follow: Not really remarkable with 30kg on the back and bad equipment. Short before sunset they are finally here. Paul goes towards them to help them carrying all the gear. In the meantime I walk down to find the path. It is getting dark already. I was waiting for Paul and the team at a little river which we have to cross before we are finally back on dry earth. While crossing the last snowfield, we are sinking in again to our hips in the wet snow. On the way down we could see parts of the airplane which has crashed here 50 years ago when the Dhaulagiri was first ascent. In the dark we reach our camping ground in the Hidden Valley at 5050m. I am tired and went to bed without dinner, except of a few spoons of rice. Paul is still with Purna and the team in the cooking tent, but soon we are both in our sleeping bags.
We did it. Our base camp is finally built up at a height of 4650m.
Marpha – starting point to the base camp
We have built up the base camp and everybody is feeling great. Also electricity and communication systems are working. We had long stages to pass in the last few days, therefore we could not find much time to make a lot of record. It is still not possible so far. Tomorrow we will start to camp #1 at 5700m the first time to build up a tent to store our materials for camp #2 and camp #3. After that we have planned a day of rest to send the promised diary entries to you. Now it is already 5:30pm and I have to pack my rucksack for tomorrow.
greetings from the base camp
Stephan and Paul
on the way to Jak Karkha
first campground Jak Karkha 4200m
on the way to the Dampus pass – in the background: Dhaulagiri
Dampus pass 5200m
French Col 5360m
base camp Dhaulagiri 4650m
First short info – Dhaulagiri expedition from Stephan and Paul
14.04.2010 Marpha, 2670m Mustang area Nepal
After a few waiting loops above the airport of Kathmandu we landed in Nepal two days ago. Two more flights with smaller machines brought us to the startpoint of the trecking to the base camp. The downhill scooter from Mountainskyver was always a highlight at the security checks. But with the help of that fact we had a great distraction for our excess luggage. The first ride with the Moountainskyver was done by Stephan from Jomson to Marpha. Immediately some kids ran after Stephan riding the scooter. A little girl was allowed to go with Stephan and was so excited, while Paul had to walk down the trail. However you almost get lost in the dust of the trucks and busses. Tomorrow we start our walk to the base camp. Crossing the Dampus pass and the French Col we will reach the base camp in five days. We won`t be able to communicate until we reach the base camp. As soon as we are online, we will send you more deatilled infos and of course some pictures.
In the meanwhile
Greets from Paul and Stephan
Ski expedition to Dhaulagiri (धौलागिरी) in Nepal. It is with its 8146m the seventh highest mounatin in the world. Dhalagiri means "white mountain", so it is perfect for a ski expedition. It forms the eastern anchor of the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Himalaya in the Dhawalagiri Zone of north central Nepal.
Plan: 12.04.10 Departure in Munich
13.04. Arrival at Kathmandu
14.04. – 20.04 Advance base camp
01.05. – 24.05. Peak phase
29.05.2010 Arrival in Munich
Team: Stephan Keck
Paul Gürtler
BC Manager: Purna Tamang
Our goal is to climb the Dhaulagiri as a group of two and ski down the mountain.
Like usual we will manage the expedition without oxygen, carriers and as an independent team.
You can find our reports in various web blogs:
netzathleten.com
stephan-keck.at
Of course all our partners have the possibility to make use of the expedition on their company owned websites.
See you soon from the base camp.
yours Stephan
A short overview of 2010:
16.01.10 – 22.02.10 VIP Guiding
12.04.10 – 27.05.10 Ski Expedition Dhaulagiri 8146m
June – July 2010 Global Warming Summits Tour
28.08.10. – 10.10.10 Ski Expedition Cho Oyu 8188m
16.10.10. – 06.11.10 Exceeding Carstensz Pyramide 4884m Papua Neuguinea
13.11.10. – 27.11.10 Exceeding Kilimanjaro 5893m Kenja Tansania
29.11.10. – 17.12.10 Exceeding Mount Vinson 4892m Antarctica
Click highlights 2010 for a closer look and some awsome pictures…….
I wish you all nice days in the powder!!!!
yours Stephan
We want to add this page a personal note.
So starting with today, we’re going to ask Stephan weekly some questions.
If you want to read more, just click on the photography underneath.
Hello everybody!
Like last summer – sun, beach and sea! …. and our small problem with Moti. In the mean time, a number of ants, bugs, spiders and probably a rat live in our car. Furthermore, as we had to expect, the car does not start. It is partly mould and grey inside, since there are still holes through which water flows when it rains and all the technical problems, I don’t want to list here.
Therefor we had a wonderful weekend at the beach and our first, you may be amazed, positive experiences with customs officials in Dar es Salaam. So it looks like we get the necessary stamp, to get rid of our car.
With a heavy heart, we decided that it no longer makes sense, dealing with the difficult Moti. We have already begun with to clear it out. We hope, that we don’t overestimate the positive experiences with customs and wish to go on asquickly as possible, get the stamp and then travel further to Madagascar and Uganda
This is just a short update.
We will let you hear more of us soon.
Regards toall
Stephan,Anita, Sina, Silas
Across Africa; from Austria to Tanzania; 16.000 kilometres with a forty year old Hanomag; in the luggage superfine free ride skis; Our last-year tour’s goal was not only to cross the country, but to get a downhill in every country and explore some climbing areas.
Tunisia, Libya, Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania – the common free ride destinations. Take a big fat free riding ski, a fitting binding and a little fantasy. Rule the mountain – you can ski everywhere, if you really want to.
Our route led us through deserts, savannahs, and jungles as well as on mountains above 5000m. That was 2007.
2008 and on we go…
Our Moti has barely survived and at the moment it is standing pretty groggy at the beach of Dar Es Salam in Tanzania. Next to a totally cracked suspension on the rear axle, damaged solar plant and electricity supply, a non functioning electric generator and a broken starter, a leaky diesel charge, a oil loosing engine and the small problem, that the Moti cannot be started or pulled away from the beach without the help of another truck, do we have a little duty problem. If we do not export the vehicle within an hour, the Tanzanian customs authority demand a fee up to 40.000€ via an ÖAMTC bank guarantee.
So starting from June 18th we’re on the road once more. Back to Moti – Transafrica II. We try to continue our journey across Africa. Because of Moti’s numerous bugs, we’ll have to spend our first day on repairs. Since we do not know exactly, if or how we restore our automobile, we have not fixed the further route of our journey. At the moment we have three options. But not until we’re on location, we will know how far Moti is capable to take us.
IF we really can’t fix the truck – driving to Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe and finally to Mozambique, where we would try to get rid of it. That is: pay customs and scrap it. Afterwards climbing in Madagascar.
IF we fix it halfway, we’ll drive to Burundi, Rwanda, Uganda – climbing and trekking in the Ruwenzori area and then back to Kenya, where we can leave the truck once more.
IF we could drive back to Europe via Tanzania, Burundi, Rwanda, Uganda, Democratic Republic Congo, Congo, Gabun… , our route would be about 13.000 kilometres to Austria. This would be our most interesting option. Regarding the condition of Moti and the political turbulences on the other hand, it seems rather difficult to realize.
WE WILL SEE!
You’ll hear from us through regularly reports on our way. We will try to keep our online diary up to date. Climbing, mountaineering, trekking, safaris and so on will – next to driving be on our daily schedule.
The following will be our supporting partner during the tour:
Mars Nutrition
CocoaVia
Vaude
Völkl
La Sportiva
Leki
Kühne+Nagel
Mooserwirt
Silversport
Black Diamond
Brandspot
First reports will follow soon – if we’re not kept from it, loose our way or spend most of the time on repairing the truck….
See you soon in Africa
Sina, Silas, Anita and Stephan
Gianni is gone.
Gianni Goltz 19.06.1963 – 22.05.2008
To all of Gianni’s bereaved,
family as well as friends,
we wish strength and offer them
our deepest condolences.
Stephan Keck and his team
The way I’ll remember you – Enjoy freedom…
THANKS…
I’d like to say thank you, to everybody who accompanied my expedition. THANK YOU! It’s good to know, that there are companions, who come along with me through their thoughts while I’m alone.
Also I thank Purna sincerely. He supported me during my whole expedition not only as a wonderful cook but also as a friend. THANK YOU PURNA!
Acknowledgement and thanks to all the people who made this expedition possible, to my sponsors and the people who trusted in me.
Mars Nutrition
Cocoavia
Völkl
Vaude
Black Diamond
La Sportiva
Leki
Intersport Eybl
Siko
Kühne und Nagel
SPECIAL THANKS TO FRANZ WEBER – THANK YOU FOR BEING A FRIEND!
Another particular thank to KARL GABEL for the best weather forecast. Thanks for your support. You gave me safety and the possibilities to make right decisions.
Thank you very much to my 2 new Swiss friends Noppa and Kobi – you know… for everything!
Last but not least – Kari Kobler and partners, the mountain guides.
Thanks Kari for your hospitality and helpfulness. It’s nice to have some real friends on a mountain.
Thanks to the whole team and the expedition leader Richie.
Thanks to Richard, Kari Kobler’s team doctor. Many times you supplied me and consulted me. Without your help I would have cancelled much earlier. Thanks for Camp IV.
Thanks to my family – Anita, Sina, Silas – for your faith. I love you all.
Hopefully I haven’t forgotten anyone, which I certainly did. Sorry for that in advance.
Extension: Mountaineering by fair means Gerlinde and Ralf (13.05.2008)
Since my statements have made some people angry, I have to make my position clear on this once more.
What is written here is direct information of the Amical Thamserku Team. This means. I did not pose any questions. The team-carriers told me those things by themselves. If this information shall not be true, I’m honestly sorry and take my statement back.
To me in general it seems like a mistake to discuss methods and tactics of other mountaineers. In my future I’ll try to let these things pass by my ass as usual.
To all the referenced and not referenced mountaineers my best wishes and good luck – indifferently what climbing style they choose or believe to choose.
All the best
Stephan
I sleep till 10.00 today. Purna picks me up and we visit the agency together. Possibly I can work with them in the future. Afterward we depose the expedition-luggage and I have lunch with Purna and his family. The afternoon passes by with writing my dairy. Finally I leave for the airport.
At about 11.00 I arrive with Yeti Air at Kathmandu. The agency picks me up and directly we go to the airline company to confirm the flight for tomorrow. Naturally it takes some time, but finally everything is arranged for my flight home.
I spend the afternoon on buying souvenirs and stroll through Thamel. And in the evening I have my last dinner with Kari and his team. Purna is invited as well. I have seen numerous agencies and climbing school, but the Kari’s hospitality is unique.
After an extremely exquisite dinner, I look forward to my first night in a real bed since weeks. I fall asleep immediately.
It takes us hardly seven hours to arrive at today’s goal. Finally we are back in the civilisation. We send some time in the garden of our lodge right next to the airstrip. When the rain starts we curl up inside the house. It’s a last comfortable evening at Lukla.
The weather is beautiful, when we start for Namche at 8.00. Once more we are rather quickly. Except for a short lunch break we progress almost double quick. At 14.00 we arrive at Namche and I take the afternoon to take a closer looks at the village.
They build and enlarge everywhere. Still they’re not able to control the effluent. Lot’s of work to do for a plumber…
After a quiet evening I hole up in my sleeping bag.
It’s my last day in the Base Camp. This one seems an exact copy of the thousand other ones. Getting up, late as usual and then… then Noppa is back: Once more an invitation for breakfast. I’m so glad he is back all right.
The weather, the wind and above all the weather forecast is pretty shitty for the rest of the week – concerning mostly mountaineers without oxygen. Kobi and Silvio are still on the mountain, but from what we hear, they’ll have to cancel as well at an altitude of 8400 metres.
Carlos, a Spain, who wanted to go for the Lhotse had to be transported out because of cerebral oedema. Marco, an Italian, had to be transported out due severe frostbite. So in this respect we have been successful taking the right decision by cancelling. For sure we have been very lucky!
After breakfast I finally strike my tent and leave with Kari Kobler’s team heading for Tengboche. The descent is rather fast. With short breaks we arrive about six hours later at our lodge.
The evening is comfortable and peaceful. Purna has stayed a little longer at the Base Camp. He has waited till the Yaks have been loaded and left then with direction Lukla. There are 8 Yaks carrying our expedition luggage back.
It takes me another day to clean up my space at the Base Camp. The weather is unsettled. Snow has fallen on the mountain. My cough gets worse from day to day. I’m glad to leave soon. I’m glad to return home.
I clean up and hang around for the rest of the day… mostly I hang around to be honest.
The Swiss team plans to go to the Pumori Base Camp, where they build “Steinmännchen” (comparable to cairns) for Gianni and give him a last good bye. At the same time Sherpas bury Gianni’s body at the South Col. His relatives have decided to let him stay up in the mountains.
I participate in the raising of a monument. We reach the Base Camp pretty fast and soon there is a nice place found. It takes us about two hours and certainly is an important act to everybody: The final good-bye for Gianni. I personally wound not want anybody to build a monumental for me. But after all it’s nice for us, because it seems to be the only possibility to finish and grieve.
Via radio they tell us, that it’s cloudy and stormy up in Camp IV. Snowfall switches to sunshine and back to snow again. Apparently there’s quite some fresh snow on the mountain.
It’s to make my decision: Heath to my frustration not any better than yesterday. Weather is bad either. Doesn’t look like a real chance to reach the summit. For this year I cancel. Too much has gone wrong.
I have to admit that next to my health condition (in years I have not taken as much medicine as in the last few weeks), China’s blocking from May 1st to 10th, the current weather conditions and Gianni’s death (not least) there have also been some logistic, tactic and further failures.
The very fact trying to make the Everest without oxygen, radio and bearers with hindsight is rather risky and maybe at the moment too deep for me. The Everest starts where the other 8000ers end. Possibly it is not the best way to reach home safe, if you do not take any safety measures.
Custodies have been built up in every Camp and I’ll come back, next time with a Climbing Sherpa, Radio and an emergency oxygen bottle. This means – to be clear on the point – still I’m going carry everything on my own, still without oxygen. But, this time with a human as partner on the mountain and, concerning emergency situations, oxygen as well as a radio to contact the Base Camp.
To me the expedition is just interrupted not cancelled for real. That’s the actual decision and even if it hurt to drop out for the moment, I’m strongly convinced, that it’s the best for me this season.
Now that I have made up my decision I’m pretty happy. Back at the Base Camp I start to prepare things for my departure. Purna instructs a Sherpa to get my luggage from the upper camps. Richard has given away some of my equipment to Sherpas. So everything I have taken with me to the mountain, will be removed as well. Just two custodies at Camp II and IV stay – I’ll need them next year.
On the radio today I could talk to Noppa. He is likely to give up this year as well. It may be the right decision. Purna delivers me once more a delicious meal and I go to bed early.
I leave my tent very late today. Purna has already made me a wonderful breakfast. The whole day I spend hanging around in the Base Camp. Despairingly my cough becomes stronger once more. This place is starting to get on my nerves!
All my camps on the route to the Mount Everest are built up. I have brought everything up there by myself. And now I should take time to recover and head for my final try to reach the summit.
Weather forecast predicts no inviting conditions for mountaineering without oxygen: Wind at a strength of 40-60km/h, temperatures at -30°C and possible rainfall (which is happening just at the moment). Combined with the incidents of the last days – losing a friend – this is not the best condition to keep my motivation high.
My eye acts up either at the moment, which means something like coffee grounds swimming around in my right eye. Apparently it’s called a “eye infarct”. But the positive part: it will heal – if I descent. At least that’s what Richard – the expedition doctor of Kari’s group – told me. Concerning my knee he could ease me as well: Something like a gathering of water or blood, which should rather easy be medically treated.
The only crap at the moment is, that I’m far away from 100% fit, which naturally is a requirement for the Mount Everest. I tax my brain the whole day, to evaluate the situation. Do it or cancel the whole expedition.
I have put so much energy into this. I’ve come so far and now I’m on the verge to reach my goal. On the other hand, this goal could also become my last one – a risk I certainly do not want to take.
Regarding my health condition and my current mental condition, I certainly have to cancel. Still I decide to give my body another 24 hours. Maybe I’m able to recover.
The rest of the day is quiet. I can’t motivate myself to start with the cleanup efforts. In the evening my cough gets even worse and a light shivering comes up. So I take my hot-water bag and hole up quickly in my sleeping bag drifting of immediately.
At 8.00 exactly I find myself in Kobler’s Camp II. Before I stroll to the team’s main marquee, I pick up my gloves and sunglasses in the kitchen first. They got radio and I want to know what the actual state of affairs is: Everybody is in good health. Everything is all right. They advise me to go to the marquee, where I could get detailed information.
I’m of good cheer, when I walk into the marquee. I meet two guys in there. To my question, what’s going on, Christian form Ischgl shocks me right away. Gianni is dead… he is dead.
I can’t believe it. Something you have to assume up here, has taken place. I mean you have to, but you don’t really do it, you certainly swamp it out. You even want to exclude it.
This situation is a trauma to me. I need some time to at least be in a position, where I’m able to start thinking clearly and act according to the circumstances. It’s just 36 hours ago, when Gianni and I warmed up our shoes together, 24 hours when he arrived successful at the summit. Now he is not alive anymore. He is dead. But how come? Why? For what reasons…?
Christian has originally planned to depart for the Lhotse by tomorrow. He cancels his expedition. Kari and Richard stay in Camp IV for now. The rest of the group and I descend to the Base Camp.
It was about 1.30 when Gianni died at 8200 metres. It takes the whole morning to transport him to Camp IV. In his sleeping bag the lay Gianni out, till Richi – the expedition’s leader – reaches his family. They will decide, whether Gianni’s dead body is about to stay up here or gets his burial up at the South Col.
My little world seems to collapse. The things, which have occurred now, are the ones you always promise not to happen, when you leave home. I’m in some kind of trance, while walking down to the Base Camp under a snowy sky.
It’s so silent you can hardly believe it. Just the snow is falling down. Pictures flash through my memory, shreds of words come to my mind and yet everything cuts down its path. Like always. Like nothing at all had happened. The clock is still running. People climb up and down the ice fields.
Is there a sense in this all? The masses of ice won’t even recognize, if you have lived at all. To me it’s rather clear – there’s no sense.
At 10.00 I arrive at the Base Camp. I’m exhausted to my bones. The Swiss television has just taken pictures of the triumphant summiteers, but nobody seems to enjoy their success. They called out some kind of gagging order. Gianni’s relatives shall be informed first. Still rumours have already spread at the Base Camp, when we arrive there.
It must be written in our faces. Just on look – the woman at the camera understands. It’s for real: one of the Swiss team will not come back home. A backbreaking mood predominates in Kari’s Base Camp marquee. There is hardly any talking at all.
They invite me for lunch and dinner, but still everybody asks himself or herself the question: Why so? In the evening I drop into my tent – coughing and with my knee hurting – which hardly holds its position on the melting glacier.
I wake up. My head aches extremely. When I open my eyes, everything is just black and white except for the grey-brown mist lying over my right eye.
In the background I can hear the Swiss talking on the radio. Some have already succeeded to reach the summit. Richard gives me medicine for cerebral oedema and tells me, my condition is going to improve soon. He even thinks, I may be able to rebuild and possible will be able to go for the Everest.
At 8.15 the complete Swiss team reaches the summit. Gianni arrives there after a 12h ascent at 9.00. That’s great, they did it! Me on the other hand, I roll from one side to the other till I can hear voices outside. I think it’s Noppa and Kobi arriving at Camp IV, so I crawl out of my tent.
I take my video camera with me and try to find them. My headache is a little better now and I walk dizzy through the camp. For the first time I recognize the trash and the oxygen bottles around here. I have to find out either, that I can’t identify people at a distance of just 10 metres.
Down-to-earth conclusion: altitude sickness; which won’t get better, while staying up here. I’m not really afraid at the moment. I know the symptoms and I know, what I have to do. Descend, four to five days of recovery and then another try.
All my camps are fixed and after some days at the Base Camp I can come back and go for the summit. In the meantime the first members of Kari’s group have arrived back at Camp IV, everything seems to work out all right. I pack the luggage for my journey downwards.
Then the bad news via radio: Gianni is not able to see anymore. Kari instructs Gianni’s Sherpa to give him oxygen and descend slowly. Some other Sherpas will be sent up to help too.
Supposable Gianni will suffer from frostbite. But this wound will heal all right! That’s the crap, if you walk without oxygen. Despite this news, I leave Camp IV with a good feeling. The descent is hard but. Nevertheless I advance pretty well.
Around 19.00 the two Swiss – returning from the summit – and me arrive at Camp II. They invite me for dinner and we hear good news. At 16:00 things looked bad for Gianni. Now an American guide has given him an injection and he seems to be right on his way to Camp IV.
He takes oxygen now and is supported by four Sherpas – the last info for this evening. I’m pretty happy to know Gianni will reach the Camp IV where, I’m sure of that, they will be able to help him. Still I dread thinking of the freezes he’ll suffer.
Once more Kari’s group lends me their satellite phone so I can give Anita a short update: Back in Camp II, rather exhausted, no summit; but safe! I tell her as well, that my plan is to take 4-5 days off at the Base Camp and have another try then.
I assure the Swiss to come over tomorrow and help if anyone is needed. That’s for sure! Back in my tent I fall to sleep immediately.
It took me long to make tracks. Early sunrays shine upon my tent, when I make my first moves of the day. Because everything is frozen and the space is so small, I look like a snowman when I leave my tent.
The Swiss expedition is almost done and prepared to leave. I on the other hand argue inside, whether I should ascend or descend. My knee is on troubleshooting service once again, which tells me, that the injection I got from an American in Camp II looses its effect – already after 24 hours.
Once more the right half of my face, caused by the refreshed inflammation of my ear, is hurting as well. Not the best timing since I have finished my antibiotics therapy yesterday. But I don’t feel too bad. So I actually have no intention to head back to the Base Camp.
The current weather and even more the weather forecast aid my motivation for another ascent. Around 9.00 I’m prepared and ready to kick off. The others are already on their way, rowed up between hundreds of bearers and mountaineers. An endless queue is heading towards the yellow band.
There are only three of us left: Kari, Gianni and I. Kari has decided to ascend from Camp III with oxygen – like most of the climbers you see up here. Together Gianni and I start upwards. At this altitude overtaking isn’t possible any longer, so we stick in the general traffic jam.
Everything works out fine till we pass the yellow band. During the crossing a staccato cough hits me so hard, that the nausea overwhelms me. But I’m not able to vomit, because there is nothing in my stomach. I throw up nothing but bile. Right afterwards I don’t feel sick anymore and progress normally.
As – once more – my rucksack is full with food and equipment, Gianni and I part at the yellow band. For him it’s the best to achieve Camp IV as fast as possible. That way he has longer recoveries looking ahead to his summit ascent. Kari will go for the summit tomorrow. Me, I’m lucky if I make it to Camp IV, sleep there for a night and either try the summit then or go back for another recovery. I will see, how my condition will be.
The Genfer Sporn follows the yellow band. Everything looks as close as if I could touch it, but still the route is endless. I can see no mountaineers without oxygen. Just some of the bearers pass by without those masks.
Hundred metres of older fixed ropes are available at the Genfer Sporn, but the ascent weakens me, with every meter I progress, it’s getting more exhausting. I have to acknowledge that there won’t be a chance – under any condition – for me to go for the summit this night.
I have to throw up two more times till I arrive at the top of the Genfer Sporn. Up here there are just some 300 metres left to Camp IV. I need two hours for that. Exhausted to the bones, but happy as hell to finally see those tents, I reach Camp IV with the evening sun up in the sky.
I take some photographs and get a warm welcome from my Swiss friends, who await me with some tea. Gianni and Richard have already built up their tent and – like discussed – I’m allowed to stay at their place. Richard seems a little groggy, but Gianni… fit as ever.
We melt some snow together and shortly afterwards it’s teatime. For days now I haven’t been able to eat anything. Richard threw up as well today and feels not strong enough to head for the summit this night. The same applies to me.
The weather forecast is perfect. Absolutely no wind, relatively warm and no clouds at all – a perfect day for the summit. Kari’s whole team decides to start at 22.00. Around 20.00 we prepare Gianni’s ascent. He decides to start at 21.00. Sitting inside the tent I feel pretty much okay.
We cook some tea, heat the inside of his shoes with the gas cooker and prepare his equipment. As Gianni wants to leave the tent, he has to vomit. Not good, but no exceptional surprise considering the stress and the altitude.
21.00 – Gianni sets off. The others are packing eagerly as well and prepare for their ascent. I feel sorry, because I’m not able to cash in on the fine weather conditions. But with those headaches and my fatigue, it would certainly be impossible to make the last 300metres up to the summit.
I must seize my next chance! Maybe I’ll feel better by tomorrow. Richard plans to try it then. We could ascend together. But the following night is not too comfortable…
I slip out of my sleeping bag at 4.00 in the morning. Everything inside my tent seems frozen. Every move of mine results in a snowfall. I dress pretty fast and within no time I’m standing outside under the starlit sky, ready for my ascent.
A kind coolness outside lets me move comfortably and leaving a town of tents behind I move towards the Lhotse-wall. At the beginning I’m all on my own, but it won’t take long till the first bearers overtake me. The first part of the way is rather flat, but shortly before the sun rises, it’s getting damned cold.
I have to stop, in order to warm my fingers and toes. The ascent along the secure route to Camp III seems endless, despite the two fixed ropes, which make progress easier. The strong windstorm and my heavy luggage slow me down further.
Even with the sun shining by now, the wind and the snow in the air make an ascent in a 30 to 50° area thrilling enough. Time and time again ice floes – smaller as well as bigger ones – come falling down, triggered off by the steps of preceding climbers. Like I said before, it would certainly be no mistake to wear a helmet…
With the altitude increasing, I move slower and slower. The weather becomes worse and it takes not long till Kari’s group overtakes me. Gianni and Richard come along too and we take some photographs, but soon I find myself alone again, just watching their back in a growing distance.
Camp III is split up into three sections. It’s around 16.00 when I reach the highest part. Kari’s camp side is there too. The tents are placed between ice clefts and it’s rather full up here. Still I’m able to find space for my mini-tent. One last cleft – in the truest sense of the word. I’m so tired.
Pitsch and Richi, two mountain guides of Kari’s team, supply me immediately with tea and dried meat. Richard and Gianni come to help me with my tent. That is an amount of friendship and helpfulness, which I certainly did not experience during the commercial expeditions I have led, even within the team.
After my tent is fixed, I start my cooking as usual with the melting of snow. The weather gets better with the evenfall and I’m allowed to witness a stunning ambience – contrary to the comfort of my tent. But the night passes by extremely fast anyway.
Almost in time I crawl out of my tent by 3.00 o’clock. It’s surprisingly warm, but much more disturbing: no more than ten metres of free sight outside – tense fog and extreme high atmospheric humidity and drizzle respectively.
Just a few steps out of my tent and I can hardly recognize anything. The first few metres through the camp work out well, but shortly after my arrival at the glacier, which is accompanied by light snowfall, there is no chance to see anything apart the route.
As today there is nobody at this time on their way through the glacier, I stray at least two hours to get by the entrance of the ice fields. Up the ice moraines and down I pass by lakes, which are not frozen to the total. Finally I’m able to find the right root.
Every I come here the Khumbu Icefalls look somehow different. The weather and warmth change its face constantly. As long as you’re aware of the dangers, which guide you on your way through the masses of ice, you can at least try to pass the obviously risky danger areas quickly – but always with due respect to each ladder and cleavage.
Nevertheless I do not want to know, how often you avert disaster. After my meander at the beginning, I progress very well and arrive already around 8.00 at Camp II. I disrobe my equipments and make a short break. I knock my original plan, to go straight to Camp III, on the head. As the midday sun would mop me up on my way, I decline my first strategy.
I start without luggage and try that way to acclimatize better. The route up the Lhotse-wall is extremely steep and secured by fixed ropes. Lots of climbers and bearers agonize upwards. Certainly a helmet would be no disadvantage. After the ascent through the wall I’m rather glad to have one more night of rest in Camp II.
In the meantime the Kobler expedition has arrived at Camp II either. It’s always good to have friends around you. In the first place it’s a gain of security and secondly it’s nice to not constantly sit in your tent all by yourself.
Unfortunately my satellite phone has been switched on the whole day and now runs out of energy. Kari Kolbe lets me take a short call home. I inform Anita, that I decided to not descend but progress with direction summit the next day. We got good weather conditions and the Kobler expedition ascends to, which raises the amount of security for me too.
Gianni, Richard and me know each other since my first expedition to the Shisha Pangma and we have become good friends. The two are the only ones to ascend without oxygen either. They also offered me to sleep in their tent up in Camp IV. That would be an enormous facilitation for me, so I’m rather glad to have such an option. I could reduce my luggage on the one hand and – even better – we could look after each other during the overnight stay. On behalf of controlling each other’s health this would be a welcome benefit. Gianni and I have already shared our tent on the Nanga Parbat and Richard and I get along as well.
We spent the afternoon partly on discussing mountaineering with and without oxygen. My opinion is plain: If my only desire is to make the summit, I have to use it! Meaning, just focussing on the goal regardless of the consequences, with all resources available. That is bearers, climbing Sherpas, fixed ropes and as already mentioned oxygen.
If – on the other hand – to someone the journey is the reward and she/he does her/his best (hard training, human strength, no help with logistics by Sherpas and no oxygen), she/he has to be clear in his/her mind, that chances to reach the summit are about 3%. Even if one uses the ladders, the fixed ropes and so on, the chances without oxygen will always be low and the risk of frostbite much higher.
Hence the decision to use oxygen or not is a rather simple one. Everyone has got effort and readiness to assume risk in his/her own hands. Personally I think there’s just one way to climb mountains – without oxygen. And I to I will always be able to turn back, before the oxygen deficiency affects my brain too much.
Thinking of security and your best perspectives on success, I believe, using oxygen is right on mountains like the K2, the Kangchenjunga or now the Everest. But to me it’s just not the natural way. And that’s why I do it without.
Needless to say that positions differ and we are not able to find a general solution to the issue, but we agree to have the same goal. At night I crawl into my tent, tired as I am. Trying to cook three different kinds of convenience food, I fail to finish and even more to eat… At least I’m able to drink almost three litres. Before I fall into a deep sleep, I pack my rucksack for the next 3-4 days.
One more day at Base Camp – according to uncertain weather forecasts I decided to wait another day. Like so many days I just stroll around the camp and pack things for the next ascend.
My condition is getting better. I’m invited for dinner at Noppa’s and Kobi’s for a change and my motivation is growing. I know, that Noppa is going to wait a little longer and Kari wants to start with his group one day after me.
My plan is to start next night at 2.00 and get to Camp III before the sun is burning down like last time. After 
one night resting, I’ll be head back for the Base Camp to have some days off. Afterwards I’ll make my summit push with the next fine weather – at least that’s the plan.
Hello everybody!
This is just a short so much the worse update.
Finally we have to report, that Stephan cancelled his expedition. There have been some health problems of which we have no detailed knowledge jet. But even more painfully we have to report that one of his friends during the expedition found a tragic death on the Mount Everest. We grieve for Gianni Goltz and wish for his best wherever he might be now. Our thoughts are with his family.
Florian Keck
After 14 hours of sleep I awake more or less pain free. My knee is bandaged, my shoulder gets better with every exercise and my motivation is on its best level. After a comfortable breakfast I call Anita. Concerning me she’s in a much better mood today.
Either this afternoon (if it’s not too hot) or in the night I’ll start for Camp II.
You’ll hear of me in about 5 day.
So long! Greetings.
The first time to wake up free of pain gives me motivation. I can even walk carefully. That’s news I have to forward Anita immediately – she has not really too much trust in the actual situation and hence is not very happy with my decision to ascend again. It’s true; I must not challenge my luck. And I have promised to take care – after the accident no even more.
At the moment the weather forecast of Karl Gabel predicts my best chances for the summit from Mai 19th to 20th or 25th to 26th. The first one is to soon, so I’ll focus on the second one. I’ll try to ascend to Camp II between Mai 16th and 17th. From there via Camp III to Camp IV, where I plane to install my depot. You’re right – looks like a familiar plan. I hope it works out this time.
Tomorrow is going to be another day off and afterwards I hope to be fit enough.
I get up early. No progress concerning my knee and shoulder. I get a delicious breakfast as usual and go on my beat through the Base Camp afterwards. In the meantime the doctor of the Kari Kobler group has returned to the camp too.
My problem got around either – Gianni and Richard are already searching for the right antibiotics. They give me a pack for another 5 days. It’s rather ridiculous; on this expedition I have taken more medicine than in the preceding 10 years all together.
The rest of the morning we spend talking on different tactics. In the afternoon I pass by the new Thamserku marquee. The camp is fully equipped since about a week, Puja Ceremony included – but no members of the expeditions have arrived jet.
Immediately I get a invitation for tea and a little chat. This is going to be the camp for Gerlinde, Ralf and another participant. But Ralf got stuck at the Makalu and Gerlinde and the other participant will arrive with the helicopter in Lobuche by tomorrow. While we’re talking arrives a Sherpa, who has built Camp II for Gerlinde.
So far concerning making eightthousanders alpine style, without bearers and fixed ropes – I’m feeling a little bit mucked about, also trying the alpine style without support. Everybody has to find his own way anyway. It’s obviously true that mostly it take me longer to learn how things work out in reality. But I’ll be capable of it sooner or later. Sometime I’ll know how to play the game with press and lectures.
I hear about today’s installation of Camp IV, the traffic jam at the Lhotse-wall’s submontane and the flying out of another bearer. Before I go to bed – again early and again lovely dinner – I make the exercises for my knee and shoulder. I’m able to bend my knee up to 90 degrees, which gives me confidence.
I wake up early and – surprise, surprise – every part of my body is hurting. With the first sunbeams I crawl out of bed and straight away Purna is with me. He tries to cheer me up and quickly brings some tea and breakfast.
Afterwards I head directly to the Base Camp doctor: Concerning my ear it looks like a otitis media (a born-and-bred inflammation of the middle ear), the knee can only be rated through algesia. He tells me, the cruciate ligament can be pulled, overexpanded or torn – wuuuuuha, best new since long time!
My first thought is: over and out. I’ll abort. But then I start to think of my preparation time, the training, the Aconcagua tour, two months of Nepal – sitting and waiting at the Base Camp, 60kilos of equipment, with I have already transported to Camp II…
It’s rather hard to give up at that point. With my walking stick I weasel back to my tent and sleep the rest of the day. I eat potatoes for dinner and get directly back to bed. I decide to get a grip on my ear-problem with another pack of antibiotics and hope that my knee and shoulder are just slightly tattered.
In about two or four days I’ll go again for Camp II. If it works out, I’ll be on my way to Camp III and IV. If not, I’ll cancel the expedition for this year. Yesterday my motivation has reached the bottom line, but today – even though I’m not able to walk straight – my head work direction summit.
My body however has to be at least 95% fit. Otherwise I’m not going to try the ascent to the summit. My health condition will override the summit. I can come back later. While these thoughts I fall to sleep.
It took me already some days to rebound and motivate myself again. And now this…
Here the details: Woke up in time. Temperature inside and outside the tent suited. I dressed and started for the higher camps after some tea and bread. The ascent through the icefalls is nothing more but routine, I take some shoots and on we go.
Even with my 15kilo-luggage I get along very well and overtake some of the other climbers yet. Up here you see lots of mountaineers without any luggage and bearers with tons of it. Just along with sunrise I arrive at the upper end of the icefalls and climb over the last ladders into the glacier’s flat area.
After three hours I’m in Camp I. The head is blistering. I take a rather long break: eating, drinking, and filming. Luckily clouds come up and with some fog and light snow fall the heat drops down and I head for Camp II.
At 14.00 I accomplish today’s goal and right after a hot cup of juice – handed over by a bearer of the Indians – I empty my rucksack and tidy up. I refer those light headaches and the pains in my right ear to exertion. I buzz Anita and take a catnap.
When I wake up in the boiling hot tent I can’t locate where the pain originates: ear, tooth, eye, throat…? The whole right half of my face pulses in my heartbeat’s rhythm. After a short consideration, I decide to descend back to the Base Camp – pure frustration. Maybe I’m a coward, but you can’t cure a serous inflammation up in 6500metres and further I have the risk of no partner-check.
Decision is made anyway. I pack my things, give a short statement via satellite phone to Anita and leave.
In the meantime it’s almost 16.00 and the snowfall has augmented. I meet some climbers first but after a short time I totally on my own. I get along rather quickly till Camp I.
I can’t tell you whether it was idleness, convenience or anything else to pack my climbing spur safe into my luggage and leave them there, even while I descend through the steeper regions, but in fact they are there. The fixed rope lies there in front of me and guides me passing the loose ice boulders. Normally you pick it up and attach it to you for safety. Well today I don’t.
The kind of painful meditation I’m in, just keeps me going as fast as I can. And suddenly here we are with everything happening in slow motion. There is a thin film of snow on the cold blue ice of the glacier. An ice block is loosening, I am losing my balance and head over heels I go down in a black hole. First my left shoulder cracks on into the ground, the whole body turns and my knee turns too, but in the wrong direction. That was fast.
Now I’m lying on the ground of cleft about 5 metres deeper than before. The awesome pain in my knee makes me forget my headache. I take two painkillers and start to crawl out of the hole. When I’m finally out I recognize, that my headlamp is gone. In the meantime it’s dawning and hurry limping.
Just in time as it’s dark I reach the Base Camp. I creep into my sleeping bag and give Anita another call. For today I have finished with my expedition. My whole body aches. I take another painkiller and fall to sleep.
Lumbago! Can you believe it? In fact today I woke up with a stiff neck. A “Hexenschuss” as we call it at home. This enduring Base Camp stay is testing me on every occasion. My electricity supply is on the blink, the satellite telephone seems quit its services every time the wind gets too strong.
I’m thinking positive: My learnt patience will hopefully help me on the actual way to the summit. Else there is not much to tell you. Today I really took my shower under a bright sun. I have packed my rucksack for the next 4 days and I truly feel confident to reach Camp IV within the next days.
I’ll take the satellite phone with me, to ensure me some safety. Further it’s rather pleasant hearing at least sometimes familiar voices. I’ll be back with more news in five days. So long!
(And isn’t it lovely to read a report without any political statement? Just mountaineering!)
I have another snugly start with breakfast. Peter Habeler and his trekking group (3 guys from Tyrol and one from Germany) cross my plans for a nice shower. He is here in the course of the 30th anniversary of the first achievement without oxygen. We talked a lot about the old times.
The Base Camp is now almost empty. Virtually all the members of the other expeditions have left. You could call it the run after the forced rest period. Admittedly for me it’s better to wait a bit yet, till my cold is cured completely.
Furthermore for a lone wolf like me, it’s certainly not the best tactic to go first with the pack. I think of waiting till Camp IV is open so than on May 11th I will be able to go directly from II to IV. That way seems best to me, because the lead is better then and the fixed ropes will be perfect. And with the loads of expeditions up on the mountain, for sure there will be no space in Camp III for me now.
I want to install a depot in Camp IV, directly descend down to II afterwards, and a night later to the Base Camp. According to the weather forecast we have to expect heavy snow falls starting from May 15th – up to two metres. So I’ll have to be back by May 14th. And again: waiting. On the other hand fresh snow upgrades my chances for the ski run.
Today is the historical day when China finally reached the Mount Everest Summit. According to Chinese sources, they succeeded at 6.30 with six people and another ten slightly after. It was a magnificent day, but there must have been a lot of wind up there. One could see the fast moving clouds from down here.
Believe it or not it’s accomplished. The mountain is free and the Sherpas start to install the fixed ropes up to Camp III. What’s further positive: tomorrow the military shall draw off. From then on we officially will be allowed to phone and mail and do anything free.
We have left about three to four weeks to make the summit ourselves. The Base Camp life seems to normalize. We even got out satellite phones back.
Still the weather is as usual – sunny in the morning and snowy in the afternoon. My cold gets better steady and I hope to be soon as fit as a fiddle, because without delay I want to be on my way to Camp III and IV.
Some meetings with Kari Kobler, Noppa, Silvio, Walter Laserer… help at least to some difference for a change. My cold fights the antibiotic, but my sore throat has already given up and my airways are free. Else nothing doing.
It seems that the Tibetans try to sabotage the Chinese expedition team, which indeed is no lucky situation for us, but on the other hand absolutely understandable. The hottest news: another total lock up is called out for tomorrow, when China starts one of it numerous attempts for the Everest summit. But we also hear that one “Tibetan” windstorm destroyed their Camp IV the other day.
What more…
Do you happen to remember the guy with the “Free Tibet – Fuck China”-Flag? True, he had to go. The team he was in not, until now. Seems another member somehow send pictures and texts home, which were not of on behalf of China’s image – to phrase it careful. Somehow China searched these pictures and texts out and backtracked them. Now it looks like the whole team has to leave.
Bad, bad boy! Don’t they know that one must not send some kind of propaganda-content via the free Internet, or – even more evil – content, which is hostile to China? As I have mentioned earlier: politics and sports have to be separated strictly. Mountaineers are strongly advised to show the white feather, pay for their permits and keep their traps shut or best, however, to brown-nose China – would-that-not-be-nice, huh?
Let’s see how long I’m allowed to stay here! Possibly I’ll survive the Chinese-Nepalese occupation period.
Another quiet day, during which my cold gets worse and worse. My motivation is down. I need to call home…
Seems like yesterday’s copy. No news, no information, nothing going on at all. Just my cold gets worse every day and along with it I got a sore throat. Nasty. So I had to start taking some medicine. I hope it helps my health, because Mai 10th is supposed to be the “opening-day”.
My activities for the meantime (next to washing and shaving): clean up my tent, sort through my photographs, write diary…
Another day without progresses passes by. Patience is what you need put up with this situation. There are rumours that the Chinese can’t proceed on the North side, because the Tibetans are on strike. Whatever. It’s just pretty annoying to everybody here.
My cold got worse – more and more coughing. So what I do is keep my body warm and drink a lot of tea. I want the sickness to pass by a natural way, thus I have not taken any medicine yet.
At the moment it’s just a endless hanging out. Like usual the last day weather changes from sunny mornings to snowy afternoons.
Today we left out breakfast and headed back for the Base Camp just after a cup of tea. Fine weather and a clear sky guided us along with sunshine but a damned cold wind. It took us only about one hour to get there – our only delay was the check point right by the entrance to the camp: ours backpacks got searched for satellite phones and video cameras – but we don’t keep such things with us, do we?
First thing to do after our arrival is heaving a delicious breakfast. Unfortunately there is still no news from the Chinese side. In the meantime we are apparently allowed to ascend to Camp II, but no way further on. Honestly, to me it makes no sense waste power and annihilate myself on the way between Base Camp and Camp II. I have to wait, till China clears the way to Camp III and IV.
During today’s ascent I have caught a cold – hopefully it gets better soon. I have to rest and sleep the afternoon. Purna as usual is in a good mood and cook the most delicious meals – some kind of wizard.
Today it snowed right from the beginning. After breakfast we made our visit at the Pumori Base Camp anyway. I wanted to visit Herbert Wolf and his team. But after half the way we met them in the snow flurry. They had to cancel their expedition because of the enormous dangerous conditions.
Back at Gorak, we drank some milk-tea and coffee together while discussing the current situation on the Everest. Our colleagues had to leave us pretty soon but we decided, that we would lose out on anything at the Base Camp with such bad weather conditions.
After almost two days off, we head again upwards. It’s magnificent day of sun and we get along very well. We overtake numerous trekkers and it won’t take long, till we have jet another break with a tasty cup of milk-tee at another lodge.
Today seems to be a very busy one for air traffic – scores of flights (M17 but smaller helicopters as well). Later it turns out to be another Chinese visiting day at the Base Camp. We rapidly get to Gorak Sheap, were we stay the upcoming night.
Like usual during the last days, we have foul weather (in terms of snow) from midday on. So I spend the afternoon with reading and go to bed early to get rid of those numerous visitors we have to share the lodge with.
One relaxed day for a start: after some breakfast in the sun warmed dining marquee, I grab my things for the way down to the village. Noppa is going to accompany me, but Kobi stays up here in the Base Camp because of his pain in the back.
Just before we leave jet another helicopter lands to pick up the first soldiers who are sick due to the altitude. Around 10.00 Noppa and me head to the verdancy. It takes us only two hours, till we arrive at Lobuche. We take a short break – drinking and eating – and on we go.
The alpine grasslands that we cross on our way to Dingboche look beautiful. We head directly to Ama Dablam. We pass by lonesome Alpine cabins and Yak herds and shortly before our aim we come across a lovely white Stuppa.
The afternoon I spent eating, tea drinking and mailing. We meet a rather big Swiss trekking group, who heads for Island Peak. There’s a lot to chat about and so we take dinner at the lodge the stay and return afterwards to ours. It’s much more comfortable here in real darkness and quiescence.
Around 5.00 in the morning I’m rather desiccated and start to roll around in my sleeping bag. So I pack pretty fast and head for the Base Camp shortly after 6.00. It’s unexpectedly cold and while the rest of the camp is still sleeping, I’m starting to sense the deficit of liquidity I attached my body with.
Fingers and toes are cold. I hardly can feel them. Again I have to get myself to drink more consequently and – in general – to control myself better. I progress quickly, which helps me to some photographs of the sunset over Pumori. But it’s rather cold for the battery and I have to quit it.
As wind comes up it gets even colder, so I have to shorten my break in Camp I. On my way down the Khumbu icefalls I meet 60 Sherpas but – to my surprise – only 3 foreign mountaineers.
At 9.00 I reach the Base Camp and with my arrival the sun rises. On one side the last days have lowered my energy vastly, on the other my acclimatisation now is on the level of Camp II (about 6500 metres).
This means no Camp I for me any more. Otherwise there would be too much material up in the mountain for me alone. From now on I’ll have to go straight to Camp II and leave the first one out.
When I arrive at the Base Camp, I immediately look for something to drink. Luckily Purna awaits me we some fresh ice tea. Three litres later my body rebounds. In the meantime Purna sets me up to date with the latest news:
- At the meeting yesterday they fixed, who would be responsible for the safety ropes on the route to the Mount Everest summit. They chose the Sherpas of the five biggest expedition teams.
- The official numbers: 279 foreign climbers in the camp, 60 of them go for the Lhotse and the rest for the Everest. Supporters are about 400 locals – cooks, barriers and so on.
- The mountains are officially closed from May 1st to 6th – at least. Hopefully the Chinese succeed with their aim to bring the fire up to the summit till then. The only exceptions are the barriers, who will be accompanied by military officers.
What do the chances for the Chinese team look like during this time window? We do not know. The weather forecast for the 1st and 2nd looks perfect, but it’s for sure, that some 1000 Chinese couldn’t build up Camp 4 till now. We hear rumours that they need two Nepalese climbing Sherpas to do it for them. National success? National pride? Come again?
In the meantime 15 Nepalese soldiers have arrived. If I did not know better, it would certainly feel like we’re right in the middle of war somewhere between Afghanistan and Iraq. Is all of it just for the sake of the Olympic Flame? I wonder what I might be, the Chinese try to hide from us so very, very hard?
Anyway there’s nothing we can do. Tomorrow we’ll visit Tengboche, from where I hope to send some more news home. Tonight I’ll get some Fondue at the Swiss team’s place. That’s for sure the right way to gain some weight back.
It’s just when the sun gets too hot, to stay in my sleeping bag, that I start to creep out of it. My first thought: I have to drink! No headache at all, but totally dried out. Some herbage tee, made of the disgusting snow-water, is what I force me to drink.
I stay within the tent till nature is calling…
Hot, hotter, my tend. I’m almost burning in there, but for the healing of my fever blister it’s much better to stay inside. Even the thought of eating or drinking makes me sick. So I lie down and don’t do anything. With nobody around you to get you the least bit motivated, it’s rather hard. So I don’t do any cooking or drinking for the rest of the day – I even stay inside all the time.
When I take a short look out of my tent around 16.00, the Asian version of Rambo is walking right along the way outside – high-tech gun and technical advice to see at night. Not even in Pakistan it was like that, but China makes it possible.
Maybe we should take those “Free Tibet”-flags with us next time. Because I can’t motivate myself to cook anything at all, the night gets rather uncomfortable. I have to take care and bring something different to eat and drink with me next time…
Today I figured it out finally and left early in the morning. I packed up my things and left for Camp II. It’s much more comfortable, when you don’t have to walk under the midday’s sun.
There are still 150 tents up here and it takes me till midday to find a place for me. I still haven’t met Noppi. While I’m wondering where he might be, I start to pick out ice and build my own campground.
After a two hours work Vaude’s K2 Space Tent is built up and looks quite good. Short break and here we go again picking up my luggage at Kari’s. At about 17.00 I crawl into my tent to melt some snow as customary. The outcome almost makes me vomit – too much dirt and dust in it.
I just can’t bring myself to drink some of the fluid or cook some soup out of it. Disregardful I eat some can-fish and go to sleep. Despite the lack of liquidity I have a comfortable night.
Waking up was not much better than falling to sleep. Despite headache and sickness have gone, I have got an enormous fever blister, which ache up my tooth and my right eye. I tried to “sleep it away” – but the bottom line: same mistake as yesterday.
Starting at about 12.00 with 20 kilos on my back, I head for Camp II. I’m rather fine and the way is not too cliffy. After 2 hours I reach the first tents of Camp II. I work through 150 tents for 1,5 hours to find Noppi’s place, who allowed me to depose me luggage with theirs. When I finally reach the highest point of the Camp, soldiers restrain me from walking further.
On my way back I accidentally drop by Kari’s place. Luckily he allows me to leave my luggage at his place. After a short chat and some tea, I head back for Camp I. The evening scene is breathtaking and, what’s even better: no discomfort this night.
I have made a serious mistake. As I have been to lazy to get up early enough – which means, waiting till the sun melts the ice on my tent and the sun is warm enough to get out of the sleeping bag easily. After a comfortable breakfast, I leave at about 10.00 in the morning under a beautiful shining sun.
No wind and 20°C when I reach the icefalls. Perspiring I crawl through the seracs and cleavages. Finally I arrive at today’s destination – Camp I. I decide to stay for 2 nights. Routine procedure: Melting snow, cooking tea and soup – sweating in my tent at 30°C.
Another member of an expedition had to be flown out during my ascent today… Makes me thinking… I rather glad to have Noppi and Köbi up in Camp II. It’s good to have someone on the mountain, whom you get along with. That’s one way to look after each other: checking on your ways up and down, if you meet each other.
Feels like I got a little sunstroke, which is due to my late start and the walking in midday’s sun. It got worse. I woke up at around 22.00 – a real bad headache and sickness. In the first place I think it may have something to do with the altitude, so I decide to sleep sitting the rest of the night.
With some pills from my emergency medicaments it could have been a ordinary night, but I have forgotten them in my black jacket down in the Base Camp. Luckily I had my Flavanol with me. The maximum dose of 750mg and within an hour I’m able to sleep till morning.
The Chinese visit including the three-day-theatrical-military-racket is over. Around 60 to 80 soldiers respectively policemen on a flying visit from Kathmandu. Great arrangement on daily basis: tea, chairs and tables have been set up at the airfield in the morning and put away by midday – effective planning, if you ask me.
But today it worked out even. Around 10.00 a MI17 belonging to Nepalese Military lands, unloading four Chinese guys. Photo shooting at the Base Camp. I can tell you, they know how to pose. 10 minutes later the helicopter arrives again – unloads 4 high-ranking Nepalese officers and the tourism Minister of Nepal – leaving without parking. Everybody is fawning around and buttering up the Chinese men.
Within 30 minutes the magic is over and I have time for some photographing. In today negotiating – Purna thinks – it may be possible, that they open up Camp III. They’ll tell us tomorrow. The summit is closed till May 10th anyway.
Now I’m sitting at Noppi’s because my solar plant decided to work not every day. I tried to find out why, but I couldn’t find a solution. But I’m all right as long as I get electricity somehow. Phone and email is officially not allowed yet.
And for mails – if I want to send some – I have to trust in the tourists, whom I give my usb-stick or a disc with data on it. They can send it from Namche or Lukla.
Acclimatisation for the rest of the day; from tomorrow on I’ll be up through the icefalls for 4 days. In the meantime, I hope, Purma is able to send news home… I hope everything comes out even.
Day off – washday. After breakfast with the Swiss guys I indulged myself in washing my hairs for the first time since I left home… ugh…
Next on schedule is: doing the laundry.
For lunch, I got some Speckknödels with coleslaw – delicious.
Dinner at my place with the Swiss guys – dumplings and Kaiserschmarren. If you think we do nothing but lay around lazy and have a good tuck-in, you’re right – somehow at least. But at this altitude that’s what your body needs. And even if you’re doing nothing, your organism hardly rebounds.
Finally the day’s work is done. Everything fixed and cleaned. I am content – nothing lacks but my with wife and the two kiddies.
“Morning!” It’s 3.30. Noppi’s yell wakes everybody. I roll over from one side to the other. At 4.00 I slowly dress myself in the frozen tent. I have already packed my stuff yesterday, so things go quite fast despite the chillness and the ice. I drop by the dining marquee for some tea and a peace of Schüttelbrot.
Climbing spur and harness by the hand, put on and there we go – 5.00. During the first part of the ice cliffs Köbi, Noppi and I walk amongst many others. About an hour later, the Khumbu Icefall begins to widen up slowly and so does the crowd along with its bearers. The clefts are getting bigger and bigger – the ice seems to become insuperable. But the route constructed by the Sherpas has all in all been made up very well.
There are only one or two points on the way through the icefall, of which I think they could be very critical. Eyes closed and go, go, go! Just leave them behind you. With the help of ladders you leave enormous crevices behind you and the whole range has got fixed ropes.
After four hours I leave the icefalls behind me – just in time the sun breaks through. The glacier evens, but the crevices won’t get less. Pacing up and down seems endless, but within 4,5 hours I reach Camp I. Lots of traffic up here… A short break follows the positioning of my campground.
The sun is shinning at not wind at all. As I’m on my own with no Sherpas, I have seen no way for me to go straight to Camp II – much more I’m just glad, that I made it save up here with those 18 kilos on my back.
Within one and a half hour I can fix my Camp I. After one more hour of recovery I hit the road back to the Base Camp. Midday certainly is not the best time but you can hear the ice cracking all the time anyway – day and night. Further it’s just not possible to foresee those ice-towers breaking down. So I just speed up a little bit hold the risk low.
13.30 – Back at the Base Camp Purna has already some ice tea in store for me. Some cups of tea and a piece of bacon make you a whole new person. Still I have to take some more time off and slow down with the acclimatisation.
The snow conditions on the Everest are rather bad at the moment. Hardly any snow on the Lhotse flank and blank ice throughout the glacier. Looks like no-go for the skis… Maybe we get some snow droning the next week.
The Chinese Olympic Team on the North sides – I hear – is not further than 7000m. In contradiction to this information, you hear that they want to make their first try for the summit on April 28th. We will see.
It’s only 19.00 when I fall to sleep holed up in my sleeping bag.
Till today I could get no clear statement, whether Camp II would be open or not. So I decided to stay another day at the Base Camp – pack my things for the up stock grounds, write my diary and enjoy some reading.
There’s no much newsworthy up here I can tell you. On the other hand: up here, you should watch very carefully, what you do or say and if you behave according to the rules. Plainclothes policemen stroll through the camp and control everything – even in Camp I & II, and even if some people up here don’t take it for real…
A member of the American expedition tried to fly a “Free-Tibet”-flag with FUCK CHINA saying on it. And he made it. And now he’s gone. Direction home. Immediately. Some things are taken very seriously up here…
Crude violations of the rules can cause the departure of all partners on the permit by force. So you should be rather carefully with any illegal actions. Honest sportsmen are obviously not supposed to do so. Neither are they supposed to show conscience regarding human rights or have a political opinion at all. It’s only sports. So be quiet or go home! We are here at China’s mercy.
Tomorrow I start for Camp I or II and maybe I’ll stay a night up there. The bigger expeditions have already sent up some of their bearers to reserve the best places and build up the tents for their members. I’m anxious to see what’s going on there.
By the way, believe it or not: today I got the copy of my permit!
The effort yesterday was a little bit more than we planned, so I am quite happy that today we have our day off – nothing but the ceremony. Purna has baken some fresh bread for us, which gives an awesome breakfast.
I hope to get another meeting with the military officer – whom I haven’t met yet – so we can make things a little bit clearer. Nice! It surprisingly worked out: I am supposed to get my Permit from an associate at Thamserkus by tomorrow – we will see.
The Puja ceremony lasts about an hour. Two Swiss guys have their ceremony as well so we can take pictures and film each other. In the evening I invite them to a Purna’s delicious pizza.
New expeditions arrive on daily basis and the place here gets so crowded, you won’t believe it. The heck with it – soon we’ll all be caught up in the traffic jam heading towards the higher stock grounds…
The day was quite relaxing. Elise has got some digestion disorders and decided to leave the Kalla Patthar (5600m) out. Around 13.00 she leaves with Dawa towards Lobuche. We – Norbert and I – start at 14.30. Prior we drop over at the military officers to see if it’s possible to take the satellite phone with us.
It took us one and a half hour of endless discussions to understand that it is not – all for the birds! Since a Swiss Organizer did not return their satellite phone for 24 hours because of an emergency situation, the guys up here have gone nuts: Seriously, from tomorrow on apparently no telephone calls at all until an official approval from China.
“Finito!” that’s what Mr. Officer is telling me. Never mind, he chops down our particulars and we leave to take some photographs. Along the way we heard, that a Russian carriage chopper crashed down. The degree of damage ranges from 20 dead persons to zero and a total loss of the chopper. The official statement changes to 100% depending which agency you ask – so honestly I can give you the facts.
The acclimatisation-tour to the Kalla Patthar was successful. We arrived there shortly before sunset and gut a bunch of pretty nice pictures of the Nuptse, the Everest, the Bumo Ri and so on – despite it was damned freezing up there. We shared the summit with an Austrian from Linz and some tourists. Subsequently we made our way back to the Base Camp in the dark. Some Schüttelbrot and cheese and way we go into the sleeping bag.
Elise is going to make her way back today. The weather is pretty nice and I plan leave for Kalla Pattharin the afternoon so that I can get some pictures of the eveningscene.
I give my notes and pictures to Elise, who’ll send it for me from Kathmandu. That’s by far easier than trying it up here in the Base Camp. Nevertheless I’ll try my best to keep you up to date…
Sunrise already at 7.30 – that’s one hour earlier compared to when I arrived. After breakfast I give Elise a “Base-Camp-Tour” and get in touch with the officer responsible for me. Once again special instructions for this year: deliver my satellite phone, deliver my video camera as well (‘No Sir, it doesn’t matter at all, that you had to pay an extra fee for the permit.’), no Walkie-Talkies and no going further than Camp 2 till the Olympic Fire has reached the summit.
I meet a bunch of friends in the afternoon, Noppi, Röbi, Kari Kobler. Small talk: An American had to be flown out – too much painrelievers against his toothaches. Gianni as well challenges the Everest without oxygen, Christian Eiderand Kari will go for the Lotse, Markus – another Tyrolean from Kitzbühel – goes for the Everest as well.
While we are chatting, news arrive that Markus got hurt by a sheet of ice released through an American woman: it broke some of his ribs and damaged his knee. So he has to be flown out as well. Fortune and misfortune lay so close each other, you won’t imagine…
We also hear, that even if there not too much people on their way to Camp 1 waiting times can already reach the extend of half an hour.
Did I tell you about the noise level? Idon’t think so. It’s almost comparable to the situation you experience, while sleeping next to a highway. You fall to sleep with the buzzing of the aggregates and the pre-party some of the teams unleash; you wake up to the same buzzing… wwwwwwwwwwwwww… on and on it goes in my ears.
Purna has got temperature, but he tells me it’s not too bad and its going to be alright. Hope so. He tells me that my neighbours had to deliver their communication tools yesterday. Maybe I’m lucky, maybe they’ve forgotten me.
No. Not this time. A look on my satellite phone display tells me more: while yesterday it said “Thuraya Nepal”, today it says “Thuraya China”. You see it’s not rather difficult buying a company (Thuraya) when you can easily “buy” a country (Nepal) for – give or take a few – 51 millions too.
It seems kind of funny to me what a totalitarian country big enough is able to afford, while disregarding human rights and carrying out mass executions. I do have some difficulties understanding, how it got the honour to host the Olympic Games. Thinking of the Games: Right now there are about 1000 Chinese workers building a route for the Olympic Fire on the north-face of the Mount Everest.
Enough politics. It’s too depressing. On the other hand I hear that, if you behave quite nice enough, you are allowed to call home one time or another. When these lines go online, I may lack the possibility to call home without controllership or – worse – to call home at all.
Elise has arrived in the meantime and we’re looking forward on a "quiet" night…
What a great day! Sunrise at around eight. I open my eyes an guess what? No not the fishy smell of the pillow in my nose… Guess again! You can’t imagine anything? Me either. I open my eyes and everything is white, all over the place. My first thought: there must be a whole in tent through which snow had been blown in. No. It’s cold – I have to admit it, but not that cold.The fuzzy white stuff covering the whole interior (solar-station etcetera, etcetera) comes from my sleeping bag. Accidents mostly come with misfortune.
It takes me quite some time to clean upand fix the unutterable whole in my sleeping bag. But this certainly is a possible way of spending half your day. While I indulge a shower, the sun sets.
This afternoon I experience another way to loose time: a walkabout through the Base Camp – in three hours all you can get is just a survey. Whew! Marquees for a whole crew appointed with carpets and racks, gas ovens, electricity units, fully equipped kitchens, giant solar plants, washing marquees with heating and media marquees (want to enjoy some movies or get the good old disco-feeling?) flooded by hundreds of trekkers, mountaineers, daytrippers, bearers, yaks and last but not least military and police.
Interesting as well: for actual causes dozens of the bearers have been recruited as officers.
I meet Gianni, a Swiss, whom I met at the Naga Parbat – this time he got a heated crew-marquee and atelevision team with him. I find tents of Austrians as well and right next to them about fifty oxygen bottles. Oxygen, diesel-engines with alternator and heating are a modern mountaineer’s best friend!
But this is the place for a showdown of heroes and experts. I’m not really much of an exotic with my “Backto the Roots”-theme. There’s even a 78-year-old man, who wants to challenge the record for the oldest man on the Mount Everest summit. 4 climbing Sherpas , 4 bearers and lots of oxygen support him.
On the other hand you meet people up here, who tell you the Everest is nothing but a promenade while they never have been even on a Six-thousander once in their life. What do you answer to such statements? I return to my place and call Elise. She’s fine and will meet me up here tomorrow. Good news at last.
While breakfast Elise looks kind of battered. She tells about her headache and sickness. We must have gone too fast for her. Her body is not able to come to grips with the altitude. We discuss the options.
The extra-guide, we have taken with us, will accompany Elise on her way back later anyway, so it’s no problem at all for her to wait an extra day – hoping her condition will improve with that extra day off.
Otherwise she could also easily return to Pheriche, where an American doctor is stationed permanently as well as a satellite telephone. That’s alright with her and we hope to meet each other tomorrow.
I leave for the Base Camp(5364metres), which I reach within just two hours. It’s a shocking view…
You’re right, if you think, nobody told me to come up here. But what I see here exceeds all my expectations. I advise me to think positive. Just grasp some positive thoughts…
42 expeditions, you can believe me,gather some people.
While I build up my own tent, my cook and organizer at the Camp her Purna is at a meeting with police and military. At least I got friendly neighbours: two guys from Switzerland on the way to their fourteenth Eight-thousander. One ofthem is Norbert Joos and shame on me – as always – I cannot remember the second one’s name.
Purna brings news: Everybody has to deliver their communication tool and the other technical tools like cameras and so on to the Chinese and Nepalese military stationed at the Base Camp. Great, but of no interest to me now. We start to build up the huge tent which is the house for all luggage and the other materials. With picking ice and shovelling stones it takes us two hours to finish.
Arranging the interior another annoyance occurs: This time is the first for me to bring a real feather pillow with me – luxury at least for the Base Camp – but… an honest advice from me: Do never – never ever – pack your pillow in the same box with the canned fish. Anything else you want to ask??? In between I’ll take some dinner with my friendly neighbours, who invited me.
Good night!
Shortly after breakfast just around 8.00 in the morning we depart for our last camp ground before the actual Everest Base Camp. The weather is fine and we enjoy a stunning panorama: all of the ice giants show their best sides – Ama Dablam,Cholatse, Lobuche, Nuptse… amazing!
By midway we meet two Tyroleans. I am rather surprised, I did not expect Hartl up here. It’s been quite some time since our last tour led us up the Marmolata South-face.
As we walk on we start to sense the altitude for the first time. The result: a slightly reducing speed. Nevertheless we arrive at today’s goal just around 12.00. Lobuche is positioned at 4910 metres. We feel alright and pretty confidently we look forward to tomorrow, when we’re going to reach the Base Camp.
(What I did not know then is, that Elise’s night was going to be not as quiet and comfortable as mine…)
A cloudless day with the sun shining brightly up in the sky.
It’s only six o’clock in the morning, when I wake up. There’s even enough time left to make some photographs of the landscape surrounding us. Elise and me take a short breakfast. So we are able to get a look at the Tibetan monk’s morning prayer.
When we finally leave for Pheriche – which at a high of 4270 is not that far from Tengboche – I recognize a common circumstance round here: tie your things up or they’ll be snitched. Likewise it happened to Elise’s trekkingsticks…
Anyway, 11.30 and we arrive at today’s goal Pheriche. The route has not been very fatiguing. After lunch we take a nap. When Elise and I meet again at the lodge’s dining hall, an English trekking company awarded by National Geographic arrives. The group – lead by a Dutch guide – reaches altitudes up to 5500metres within their destinations.
It’s astonishing to watch a group of this size gathering in one place – you have to imagine they separated up into three camping grounds for the night. Dispite there are only 13 of them left. The rest had to be flown out.
07.04.08
Departure for
It’s about six o’clock in the evening, when we leave Kramsach for the Munich Airport. The ride seems short to me, thankfully no problems occur. We have left an hour for the good-bye – only shortened by the parking ticket.
For the first time my daughter Sina cries. To me it seems like she is old enough now to understand what’s going on. She’ll start school by autumn and has recently become six.
I take these thoughts with me, as I fall to sleep shortly after the plane leaves. The last few day have been exhausting.
08.04.08
Stopover in
At the hotel I meet my trekking Dutch guest Elise. She will accompany me to the Everest Base Camp. Because it’s late, we agree to dine at the Shangri La Hotel.
09.04.08
This delay would cost me six days and postpone my BC-arrival to April 22nd. Additional, May 1st to 10th, the Chinese government does not allow anyone to climb further than Camp 2 because you’re not allowed to sleep at Camp 3 (Everest Route of Stephan). Also till May 10th you have to hand over your electronic communication tools to the Chinese military. And last but not least no accent past Camp 3 till the Chinese Olympics team has reached the summit.
These were the points I made up to Namgil when his father Sonam arrives. Sonam on the other hand gives completely different reasons for my postponing than his son did. After some time it occurs to them that they have no real clue concerning the details of my program. So did pick up their file on my expedition and look it through one more time… You hardly can imagine, they (Thamserku) are supposed to be the best ones over here. Not the best reference for our Italian pre-coordinator.
So all in all, the flight gets cancelled anyway and I use the time to give the problems with my Satellite phone another run. I purchased the tool from the only official Thuraya partner in
At least my Base Camp organizer/cook has already arrived there and hence can prepare things for me.
As I slip into the water that evening, I know that it will be the last real bath I can take for the next seven weeks.
10.04.08
Today are elections. Just as announced: no taxi, no cars, nothing at all on the streets except police, military and ambulance. The first temple (Pashupatinath) we visit is converted to a polling station. We’re luckier at the second (Swayambhunath) one and can take great pictures, because we have place almost on our own.
The day ends with another unsuccessful try to get my satellite mobile working. So I go to bed, because tomorrow we leave at five o’clock in the morning for the airport.
11.04.08
After a stressful morning, which started at about three o’clock and reached its climax in a line of about one hundred people at the airport, the antique plane of Yeti Air takes of by 6.30. It’s a whole new life filled with happiness every time you survive these flights.
After one hour at Lukla we leave with our guide and the bearers.
Alongside the route through the valley there are lots of small villages and vertiginous bridges. The people there don’t have much of a happy expression in their faces. No wonder – if you ask me – I would neither like the tons of tourists who pour through their villages.
We arrive long before our guide and the bearers. And when rain starts falling I decide to go and take a look, where they would stay. When I meet them, they tell me that that have made our luggage waterproof and we head together for Namche Bazar (3450m) (look up a video a youtube from some trackers who did the same way – just to get a picture).
We (Elise and me) are lucky – the rain isn’t to strong and we can connive at our luggage not being waterproof at all. Everything dries up easily and we get our supper in a warm snuggery.
Afterwards I can take a look for a @cafe to send home the first news. Hopefully I’ll be able to do this at the Base Camp too – if
12.04.08
Today is going to be an easy one. We have breakfast at eight and visit the market afterwards. 
Namche seems a bit like the Alpine Disneyland – not only on the marketplace but also on the way to Tengboche: Bearers, yak crews and trekker from all over the world walk on broad way laid-out with stones to make it less exhausting and beware the guests from getting wet.
During lunch a ambitious trekker told us that a little bit further on the way there is snow at a height of about 10 centimetres. In his opinion you can’t see the stones of your route anymore and hence it’s impossible to go on. It’s not really rare to meet that kind of people in such a region – but you don’t expect them there, do you?
Either way, the landscape with rising ice towers in the background gets more and more beautiful as we move on. The giants around here make me remember how small man truly is – even when the weather is cloudy. Despite the hype and dirt caused by the numerous hikers around here, most people can’t abstain the beauty of nature round here.
It’s close to two o’clock in the afternoon, when we arrive in Tengboche (3850m) (take a look at the official site). The weather is bad and only after another fatiguing negotiation; we manage to get a room in one of the three lodges up here. The place is rather small but still it has got a @cafe. Which is pretty nice to me, as my normal handy gets no service up here and the satellite mobile still won’t unfold its full potential… a least I can make calls!
The bearers are late once more (what a great crew) and a strange coincidence makes me curious: We have caught up with my air cargo – just by accident I recognize on of my drums next to junk near a hut on the way through Namche. I advise our guide Dawa to take accelerate proceedings.
I wonder what still will be missing, when I reach the Base Camp. Tomorrow we’ll hit the road to Pheriche. Let’s hope for better weather condition’s.
Some further facts on Mount Everest at www.nepalvista.com and look up my route here.
Ministry of Tourism Everest 2008 south side regulations – no anti China activities and censored dispatches
01:13 pm EDT Apr 03, 2008
Source: www.mounteverest.net
More than 20 teams have now received climbing permits for Everest, the Nepal Ministry of Tourism wrote to ExplorersWeb this morning. About 10+ teams are still in the process.
Climbers have received written instructions (below), issued by the Nepal Government. It now seems clear that freedom of speech – not security as previously claimed – is the main worry on Everest this Olympic year.
No anti-China gear "that may harm bilateral relationship between Nepal and China" is allowed, electronics are to be stored with police in BC until May 10, and news about the expedition are to be screened by the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation before allowed to be sent out.
Here goes the official document, signed by climbers at receiving their permit:
Conditions to be fulfilled by Team Leader of the expedition team for Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse
"The Ministry of Tourism in Nepal sent the following regulations for Conditions to be fulfilled by Team Leader of the expedition team for Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse:
1. The team shall not carry and exhibit any things like flags, banners, stickers, pamphlets or any audio visual devices that may harm bilateral relationship between Nepal and China.
Our team fully agrees to allow the liaison officer to check any things belonging to the team if he thinks suspicious. Likewise we fully agree to the fact that the liaison officer has the right to seize if found such materials and send back the team or any member of the team to Kathmandu.
The government may take action to those for violating/ breaching law of land relating to bilateral relations between Nepal & its friendly country.
2. The expedition team will manage the system of registering daily attendance of members and helpers of the team and report to the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation by the Liaison Officer.
3. The team will deposit all its electronic equipments for lock up in the Police post at the base camp and if necessary use the equipments available with the government units till 10th of May, 2008.
4. Any member or helper of the team shall not proceed above camp II before 10th of May, 2008.
5. The mountaineering expedition team must visit the Sagarmatha Pollution Committee (SPCC) office at Namche Bazaar prior to their departure to the base camps. The team must give list of the disposable and non-disposable goods to SPCC and allow them to inspect the goods, SPCC will give necessary information regarding the waste management system of expedition in the Khumbu region.
6. All the goods must be classified into three categories and described and recorded at SPCC
- Disposable in the Khumbu region, which can be incinerated and biodegraded: Toilet paper, cardboard boxes and paper waste, bamboo baskets and mats, cotton and jute bags, spoiled goods, dead bodies.
- Recycling materials: Tins, bottles, Jars and plastic containers, plastic and foil bags sheeting, reusable cooking gas cylinders, gas canisters.
- Re-exportable goods: Used oxygen bottles, used batteries, climbing equipment such as tents, personal gears, etc.
Disposable goods must be brought down from the base camps to Namche Bazaar and handed over to SPCC Recycling materials should be brought down to Kathmandu (after recording at SPCC) and to be handed over to Solid Waste Management Center for Recycling.
The re-exportable goods like used oxygen bottles and batteries must be taken back from Nepal to their own countries respective of whether they are purchased in Nepal or elsewhere, and export certificate should be taken from Customs Office. The garbage deposit amount will be refunded only after submission of the above mentioned papers. And failure to do so may result in cancellation of expedition permit and banning the team and its members for further expeditions in Nepal.
7. Burning or burying any short of garbage at the base camp is strictly prohibited.
8. Painting on rocks is not allowed.
9. All the news regarding the expedition must be conveyed to the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation first of all, and only then it can be sent to others. The satellite phone, V.H.G. and U.G.V. wireless sets, and any other communication equipment must not be used for commercial purpose, failure to do so may result in confiscation of equipment, cancellation of the expedition permit and additional penalty according to law.
10. SPCC can check and monitor sanitary condition of the base camp at any time.
11. Liaison Officer, appointed as representative of government are there to help the teams as well as to monitor all the rules and regulations. So, they must be with the teams all the times. Likewise we fully agree to the fact that the liaison officer has the right
12. At the base camps, which are situated in glacier, human wastes (toilets) must be collected in portable plastic drums or barrels and disposed at proper site below base camp. In the base camps teams make proper toilet pits, giving adequate consideration to sanitation and environment.
13. We will be fully committed to abide by the instruction given during the briefing programme and within the frame of permission letter.
We agree to abide by the terms and conditions mentioned above/Signature.
It’s been quite some time since I posted in here lately. There have been some good times (e.g. the summit of the Aconcagua) in between but some bad too (the lock-down of
18.03.2008
[Location – Mandoza]
The last days at home have been quite annoying: office turbulences, Chinese officials on the way to the Mount Everest, the closed rode to
So we (Othmar an me) decided to choose the
Normally there would be a crowd up to 1000 at the base camp – so the calmness could be quite relaxing for a change. When we headed for this station, we already knew that the base camp would be without electricity and hence no phone to home would be possible. By the time we would make the summit, the local season would be winter.
19.03.2008
[Location – Punte del Inca / 2700m]
Shortly after our arrival, we look out for pack animals. Don Rudi is gracious and arranges the carrying of our 100-kilo luggage to the base camp for just double the price he takes normally. But that’s common. By the time the main season is over you’re even lucky to find anyone willing to work for you.
On the early morning of the 20th march we leave for our first camp with direction Confluenzia. The same day we manage an acclimatisation tour to the 3900metres-summit of a nameless mountain.
21.03.2008
With25 kilometres more in our feet we arrive at the base camp (4300m). Justpieces of the bigger expeditions are left. The next day is a day offduring which we take care of the luggage the donkeys carry up to ourplace.
23.03.2008
We enjoy our next acclimatisation tour to the Co. Bonete (5004m) in a time when you don’t need to share the summit with fifty other people hanging around.
24.03.2008
Another day off…
25.03.2008
Departure for Camp 1 – Nider del Condore (Aconcagua).
Without problems we arrive there before midday. A lot of snow is up there – more than I remember thinking of my first ascent. We leave food and clothes in the Camp and return to the Base Camp.
After meal pain in the stomach appear for Othmar – I honestly don’t know whether they are caused by me special cooking abilities of the melt snow-water we have to use. Not the best sign but a night to rest should help.
26.03.2008
We feel fine and so we plan to take the left things up to the next camp and go for the summit. We get along pretty good but the stomachache of Othmar won’t improve. He is truly worn out by the time we arrive at the camp (5500m).
When we’re about to start our next cooking session, the gas cooker wouldn’t work – which is pretty “amazing” as it’s a brand new one. So we build the tool apart to its component parts. Under the danger of a possible explosion we can make it run, melt snow and decide to make the summit the next day – it would be to much of a risk to try it in a situation with not enough water.
The night is an uneasy one for Othmar – he has got a headache and quite some problems with breathing: No more sleep after midnight for him. We debate on the situation and the chances. He decides for himself: A good time up to now – but no summit this time. Very reasonable – most people would not decide as clever and thoughtful, thinking further more of the broken gas cooker.
Butme, I find myself in a discrepancy. It takes me an hour to bring up adecision. I’ll try it – always in my head that I have to arrive at thesummit till 17.00.
6600m – the wind is up to 120km/h, every ten steps it brings me to my knees. I have to look with the wind to catch up some warmth. -25°C aren’t that relaxing. The last 100 metres take me almost an hour. Finally I arrive at the summit’s plateau, it’s 16.30 / 6964m. I can’t stand straight. The wind is much too strong! And the chilliness gets to me either. Just two photographs and the batteries are out of energy.
Luckily the wind declines on my way back at about 6000m. Happily and fatigue I almost immediately fall to sleep, when I arrive at the camp by 19.00. Eating is cancelled anyway – you remember the gas cooker?
The bottle of frozen water I carry with me finds place in my sleeping bag – this should help melting… And indeed it works! With ¾ litre take my way back to the Base Camp very early the next day – which is supposed to be a very long one: 40km and 2800 less sea level on foot. By 18.00 we arrive at Buente del Inca, where the hamburges completo and 2 litres of mineral water make up a nice compensation for the hard day.
29.03.2008
Steaks and stocking up on energy in Mendoza.
30.03.2008
Another day off. We will leave for Buenos Aires tomorrow and decide then which way we want to go on. An earlier return home seems possible – time badly needed to arrange the next steps and come to grips with turbulent situation in Nepal. No friendly situation down there by the meanings of humanity.
Chaos seems to be expecting me – no one is allowed to go for the Mount Everest summit before May 10th. Still I’ll do my best to arrange a peaceful and successful expedition.
Looking back, the preparation tour to the Aconcagua came out a very good way.
Till next weekend.
Greetings
Stephan
Everest about to be closed
Source: http://www.mounteverest.net
"Rumors circulating in our national and international media that Mt. Everest will be closed to climb from the Tibet side are false. China will also not limit the number of expeditions in 2008," Ang Tshering Sherpa stated last year, following a meeting with CMA & CTMA attended by high level delegates from Beijing and Lhasa.
This morning however, the President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association got the pictured notice sent Monday by CTMA to Everest north side expedition leaders. The mountain will be closed, and according to another reliable source, no group visas to enter will be issued until May 10.
Considering the need for acclimatization and infrastructure, climbing Everest north side this spring will be short of impossible. This is a serious blow to Everest climbers and related personnel, many of whom got the notice only one week before their Everest approach is due to begin.
Reportedly, Chinese officials also attempted to convince Nepalese authorities to close the icefall on the south side of Everest this spring until May 10, and try not to have summits during the period. Nepal has reportedly rejected this request.
The situation shows serious contempt for the sport of mountaineering by Chinese Olympic officials. Reportedly, the worry is that "Free Tibet" groups would take the opportunity to voice their cause.
Not only Everest, but also Cho Oyu will be closed during this period. Hundreds of climbers are now scrambling to evaluate their situation.
In many cases, permit, porter, staff and infrastructure fees have already been paid. Those who can afford it, choose to reroute to Everest south side – putting a dangerous strain on this side of the peak, with close to 70 permits reportedly issued there already this season.
Protests are now being put forward by mountaineers to Chinese officials. "I don’t blame CMA/CTMA in Lhasa," a western organizer told ExWeb over phone from KTM this morning, "Beijing is taking over."
Training and preparation on full speed
A sense of spring accompanies on my last training tours to the Karwendel Mountains right outside the doorstep of my home. The sunset wraps myself in the spirit of the Fichter Spitz. Even during training tours I enjoy the character of loneliness and the peace out there to the full.
But training sessions are not the only things in my schedule – office work and expedition related organisation has to be done. During the last visits with my sponsoring partners on the ISPO (International Trade Fair For Sports Equipment and Fashion) and the ÖSFA (Austrian sports exhibition) we exchange details on equipments and clothing. Further more I have to organize the Air Cargos and take care of custom formalities. 
ÖSFA Salzburg – Acquiring equipment and clothing form my long-time sponsoring partners and outfitter La Sportiva and Black Diamond. Thomas Pfister and his team is one of many partners who enable my projects with their intensive support. The high quality of my equipment and trust are the premises to every expedition. Further possibilities to take part in the development and upgrading process make the project even more interesting. We try to include and realize our know-how and expert knowledge to the different areas of the development process.
Not only the mountaineering equipment need to be perfect, it is also important to have technical supply for the base camp which works under extreme conditions. Energy is a considerable factor thinking in terms of weather forecast, photo/video-equipment and information flow via email. A special solar module supplied through Siko Solar guarantees ideal conditions. Strong performance and highest reliability stand vis-à-vis to functional characteristics like small size and low weight. I rely on my own experience when I use the Thuraya satellite telephone, which connected me to my home base from every place I have been to.
A series of tests in cooperation with the Institute of Sports Medicine in Innsbruck guarantee controlled
preparations and training plans. In so doing we were able to simulate conditions of 4850 metres sea level over the course of the tests. As Mars Nutrition is my main sponsor I obtain nutritional supplement and hence test effects of flavanols – naturally contained in cacao. This substance helps blood vessels in a natural way to relax and hence support a healthy blood circulation. The effect of more oxygen in the blood circulation may upgrade the acclimatisation.
By next week’s end we head for the Aconcagua (Argentina). Further we expect the Vaude’s remaining equipment during the next days which has to be enhanced with logos and writings of the other sponsors. Already today (Wednesday 05.03.08) we leave the Air Cargo on its way to Kathmandu to the trusting hands of Kuehne and Nagel. Another interview for a radio-station tonight, fine tuning of the Völkl skiing-equipment and a short trip with the family (climbing in Arco) will flash by. We’ll see how this schedule will work out.
I’m expecting to give you another news-update by the end of next week when I’m already about to leave.
Greetings
Stephan Keck
Everest Back to the Roots Expedition 2008
SOLO
SKI-RUN
WITHOUT CARRIER
NO OXYGEN by fair means.
Mount Everest: 29,030ft/8850m
Period: March 23 – May 31 2008 (68 days)
Itinerary for Mt. Everest
March 23 – April 05: Acclimatization Aconcagua and Ojos de Salado, Chile
April 05 -07: Paperwork with the Nepalese Government. Fly to the Himalayan foothills Lukla. Meet my staff and continue to Phakding (8,700 feet).
April 08: Namche Bazaar, the gateway to the Khumbu region at 11,300 feet
April 09: Thyangboche
April 10: Italian Research Station
April 11: Kala Pattar (18,450 feet)
April 12 – May 4: Arrival at Everest Base Camp (17,500 feet) on the jumbled moraine below the treacherous Khumbu Icefall. There I have some time to acclimatize. The next weeks are spent negotiating the Khumbu Icefall, entering the Western Cwm, and climbing to Camp III (23,500 feet). My objective for the next 3 to 4 weeks is to establish and stock three camps above base camp and to acclimatize for the ascent to the summit. I sleep at Camp III for a night or two before heading down to Base Camp to rest for my summit bid.
May 5 – 9: Fit and acclimatized, I head back to Base Camp. For the next 5 days rest is top priority. I visit with trekkers, eat, rest, eat, rest, and prepare for the summit bid.
May 10 – 31: I climb to Camp II, then to Camp III and finally to the South Col, where I place my final camp at 26,000 feet. My summit target date is between May 15 and May 25. I am prepared to stay at Base Camp and wait for good weather or until the monsoon arrives at the end of May. I go back down to Kathmandu (3-5 days); leave Lukla by plane.
Background Information
In the past I was able to achieve many aims as a mountaineer and mountain guide. I worked as an expedition leader in South America, India, Pakistan, Nepal and Tibet. However, the business with high mountains cuts both ways. The longer I guided guests to 8000m high mountains, the more I questioned the sense of my actions. It took many years of training – countless tours to mountains between 5000 and 7500m high – before I dared to climb summits at a heigh over 8000 metres. Respect and training always guided me to the summits and – even more important – back home. In my opinion, mass tourism to high mountains heads/focusses (on) the wrong direction. Therefore, I momentarily don’t guide tourists to 8000 m high mountains.
The Everest Back to the Roots Tour is the way back to the beginnings of my alpinism career. For me back to the roots means back to fair alpinism – first and foremost, to respect foreign cultures and the nature, but also to achieve an aim not only with one’s own strength and force, but also without any technical equipment or carriers. This I consider the most original confrontation between man and nature. Nowadays, we can buy almost everything. So the way back to a minimum of means is wonderful to me. Everest Back to the Roots Expedition 2008 SOLO – ski descent WITHOUT carriers, WITHOUT oxygen by fair means.
Since the late 19th century, adventurous spirits have been fascinated with the ascent of the highest mountain on Earth, Mount Everest, which rises to imposing 8850 meters (29,030 feet). After 29 years of numerous attempts, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first people to stand on the elusive summit on May 29, 1953. These courageous climbers ascended through to the South Col from the Khumbu Glacier, and continued their ascent to the summit via the Southeast ridge. Their route is now referred to as the Normal Route and is also the one which will be ascended by the Everest Back to the Roots Expedition 2008.
Stephan Keck
by Stephan (November 2nd 2007)
The last weeks in Africa passed by much faster than we expected – and within no time we found ourselves back in the rush of Europe’s wealthy society.
Our Moti (the truck which took us all the way down) was not really keen on leaving the seaside, and it was not too difficult to convince us of spending some more time in Africa too. After some days at the beach of Dar es Salaam, we had the pleasure of driving around the beautiful island Zanzibar with a rented Suzuki Jeep – endless beaches of snow-white sand, swimming with the dolphins and
delicious fresh fish were awaiting us. After one week we returned to our tired and old Moti on Sunrise Beach, a quiet and lonely spot. It took us some days to figure out how we could get our friend back home or where we could leave it to enjoy its last days on Earth. We had to accept that the first option was an expensive one with lots of administrative barriers. However, we did not manage to say goodbye to the truck, which had accompanied us that long, even if not always for the better. So we decided to prolong Moti’s holidays by renting a campsite at the beloved Sunrise Beach for half a year. Then we took the bus back to Nairobi, from where, after a goodbye-safari, we headed back home on October 10th 2007.
We’d like to say thank you to those who accompanied us with their hearts and minds on our enduring journey. It has been another unforgettable adventure for us, which we have to leave behind, while keeping beautiful memories. You might remember though, that our Moti is just on holiday. Which means…?
Moti goes Northeast – Mai 2008 Tanzania – Kenya – Somalia –Djibouti – Eritrea – Yemen – Saudi Arabia – Bahrain – Qatar – United Arabic Emirates – Iran – Pakistan.